Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - October 1895 The Delineator

Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - October 1895 The Delineator

Figure 268P - Ladies' Street Costume

This conservative-looking toilette is made of gray crinkled mohair, and has a graceful five-gored skirt, and a basque with removable chemisette which permits of pleasing color changes. The skirt is smooth fitting at the top of the front and sides and breaks into stylish ripples below the hips. At the back it is arranged in backward-turning plaits that expand gradually toward the lower edge.

The round basque extends to a becoming depth over the hips and is adjusted with the utmost accuracy by double bust darts and the usual seams. The fronts are lapped in double-breasted style and closed at the left side with button-holes and buttons; above the closing they are reversed in lapels that are of the same width as the ends of the rolling collar, which they meet in narrow notches. A linen chemisette having a high collar with Piccadilly ends is revealed between the fronts and is completed with a neat satin band-bow. Large one-seam leg-o'-mutton sleeves that are gathered at the top and stand out with bouffant effect complete the basque.

Smart visiting, travelling or promenade costumes may be made up in this manner, for the tailor gown when well fitted is an attractive rival of pretentious toilettes. Scotch mixtures, serge, mohair and cloth are popular materials in which to develop the mode.

The hat is a gray Alpine felt trimmed with a fancy braid band and quill feathers.

Figure 269P - Ladies' Visiting Toilette

A dressy combination of wool goods, velvet and plain and brocaded silk is shown in this handsome toilette. The full vest, which is gathered at the top and bottom is of plain silk decorated with length-wise rows of narrow lace edging and droops slightly in French style over a wrinkled belt-section of plain silk. The jacket fronts extend considerably below the vest and are fitted by single bust darts; and the back, which is close-fitting, displays a laid-on box-plait at the center and stylish ripples below the waist-line. A novel feature is the sailor collar, which has jabot ends extending to the waist-line; it is of velvet bordered with lace insertion and passes under the box-plait on the back. Two lace-edged Paquin tabs of plain silk fall over the wrinkled stock, and the large leg-o'-mutton sleeves of brocaded silk are bouffant at the top and close on the forearm. Three large fancy buttons decorate the front edges of the jacket fronts below the waist-line.

The two-piece skirt is novel and graceful, being in circular style with a seam at each side. It fits the figure smoothly at the top and breaks into rolling flutes below the hips and at the back. A cording of velvet completes the lower edges of the skirt.

Combinations of two or more fabrics may enter into a toilette of this kind, with stylish effect. Silk, crepon, Bedford cord, mohair, cheviot and cloth will make up stylishly, and silk may be used for the full vest. Lace, buttons, velvet or bands of jetted or silk-cord passementerie may be used as garniture.

The felt hat is trimmed with fancy braid, quill feathers and ribbon.

Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - Autumn 1874 Fashion Book by Cavendish House, London

Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - Autumn 1874 Fashion Book by Cavendish House, London

Ball Dresses

Fig 8 - This Tarlatan dress has pretty side trimmings and reversed plaitings. Alternate box plaitings and Imperatrice plisses reach to the pouf at the waist, and there is a handsome satin sash.

Fig 9 - This is a very serviceable style for black net. It has a tablier composed of diagonal folds, edged with white blonde, and defined by crosscut bands of black satin; below are plaited flounces, and the skirt at the back is puffed to the waist.

Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - Autumn 1874 Fashion Book by Cavendish House, London

Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - Autumn 1874 Fashion Book by Cavendish House, London

Description of Costumes

Fig 3 - Tweed Costume - The skirt has a broad band of velveteen between the stitchings round the hem. The tunic is bound with velvet, and gracefully draped at the back. The bodice is made as a Jacket and Waistcoat, velveteen being introduced in the revers, cuffs, and basque.

Fig 4 - This is suitable for serges, and soft materials. The skirt has a plaited flounce at the edge, a runner being introduced at the back, about half a yard from the waist, which keeps the front plain and the skirt in its place. The tunic describes a series of plaits, like a kilt, and has plaited pockets at the side. The bodice has a waistcoat, the Jacket being made to simulate a plaited scarf, crossing in front. The basque at the back consists of a series of plaited frills.

Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - June 1889 Peterson's Magazine

Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - June 1889 Peterson's Magazine

Dress for Country, in Turkey-Red Twill and Red-Striped Woolen on a Cream Ground. The plain skirt is of the striped woolen, made on the cross way; waistcoat and large collar and cuffs to correspond. Bodice and overdress of the red twill. The collar may be cut either square or pointed at the back.

Fishing, Mountain, or Walking Dress, in Scotch Check Tweed. The Norfolk jacket has plaits from each shoulder, and the waistband fastens with a leather or oxydized buckle. The skirt is kilted without a foundation.

Traveling-Dress, of Blue Serge. The skirt falls in straight folds at the back; the front is slihly draped. The pointed bodice opens over a plastron of striped blue and cream-colored jersey-cloth, and has a broad collar and revers. Hat of straw, faced with blue silk and trimmed with loops of cream-colored mull.

Walking-Dress, of Black or Self-Colored Cashmere or Surah. The underskirt and vest are laid in plaits. The redingote opens from the throat downward and the bodice is crossed by bands and bows of moire or satin ribbon. The same ribbon ties at the waist and ornaments the short elbow-sleeves. Hat of straw, trimmed with loops of ribbon matching the costume. A long scarf veil is worn with the hat, either in lace or gauze.
 

Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - February 1883 Peterson's Magazine

Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - February 1883 Peterson's Magazine

House-Dress, of Bege-Cloth. The skirt is kilted nearly to the waist, and the full round tunic, which is also of bege-cloth, is machine-stitched. The bodice is of dark-blue cloth, and the basque is cut out as battlements, and is ornamented with braid, which is continued down the front, at each side of the buttons.

Walking-Dress, of Dark-Green Cashmere. The skirt is laid in box-plaits in front, and in kilt-plaits at the side and back. The round tunic is full and short, and simply draped at the back. The coat=basque is close-fitting, and is buttoned down the front with old silver buttons. Bonnet of mastic-colored felt, with crown, with dark-green plush front. A bunch of dark-green feathers and a silver buckle ornament it. Visiting-Dress, of Terra-Cotta Colored Ottoman Silk, and dark-claret velvet, with terra cotta polka-dots. The bottom of the skirt has a flounce of the Ottoman silk, laid in side-plaits, with bands of the claret-colored velvet alternating with the silk plaits. The bottom of the velvet skirt is cut in deep vandykes. The Ottoman-silk scarf is draped quite low in front, is caught up at the sides by a band of velvet, and falls at the back, where it is turned up and draped. This Ottoman-silk scarf is placed so as to show the upper part of the velvet skirt, and does not reach to the waist. The bodice is pointed at the back, and has a vest of the velvet. The cuffs and narrow collar are also of velvet. Folds of the silk are laid fichu-fashion about the shoulders. Bonnet of claret-colored plush, with terra-cotta colored feathers.

House-Dress, of Dark-Crimson Silk and Black Satin. The underskirt is of the satin, edged with a narrow knife-plaiting. The scant ruffles of black satin are covered with black Spanish lace flowers. The crimson overdress is long in the front, falls square at the back, and id draped high on the side, with a gold buckle. The bodice has a long point, with gathered plastron in front, and the collar and cuffs are of black lace. House-Dress, of Almond-Colored Camel's Hair and Seal-Brown Velvet. The skirt consists of alternate box-plaits and kiltings of the two materials. The double tablier is trimmed with velvet. The bodice is in the redingote style, with long coat-ends at the back, where it falls in wide plaits, and has square tabs in front. This is also trimmed with seal-brown velvet, and the buttons are of velvet.

Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - February 1880 Peterson's Magazine

Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - February 1880 Peterson's Magazine

Visiting or House-Dress of Black Brocaded Silk. The skirt has a very short train, and is edged with two narrow knife-plaited ruffles of black satin; above them there is a wide, satin, puffed trimming. The brocaded silk is a good deal wrinkled crassiore, and is drawn back under the full paniers, which are edged with a black silk fringe; the shirred waist is princess shape at the back (of which the paniers are a continuation), and is made full in front, and with a very long point. Dark red plush bonnet, with red and black plumes. House or Walking-Dress of Dark, Peacock-Blue Camel's Hair. The under-skirt and flounces at the bottom are of peacock-blue silk; the over-dress which opens over the blue silk skirt is of the camel's hair, and is loosely draped at the back. The silk under-skirt and the over-dress are trimmed with bands of peacock-blue silk-striped velvet. The over-dress has a fringe to correspond in color. The coat basque is made with few seams (a good style for slight figures); is slightly gathered at the bottom of the side seams, and is edged with the striped silk and velvet material. A collar to correspond.

Walking-Dress of Brown Camel's Hair. The bottom is trimmed with a deep, box-plaited flounce, which falls from beneath the skirt cut in deep points trimmed with braid. The deep paletot is of brown cashmere, figured in dull but rich colors, which give it a very oriental effect. The paletot is double-breasted. Dark brown plush hat with feathers of a lighter shade. Young Girl's Walking-Dress of Gray Cashmere. The deep kilt-plaited skirt has under it a narrow knife-plaited ruffle of cashmere. The dolman cloak is of heavy, gray cloth, and the sleeves and collar are edged with fringe; gray beaver bonnet trimmed with gray satin ribbon.

Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - Autumn 1874 Debenham & Freebody Catalog

Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - Autumn 1874 Debenham & Freebody Catalog

Description of Costumes

Model 1 - A useful Costume composed of Welsh Homespun. A plain skirt, with seven rows of stitching. Three folds of material simulate a treble Tablier; each fold is piped with Velveteen. The Tablier is open at the back, and the Body has a deep point with loops of Ribbon; and the material attached falling over the Tunic and the front, forms a double-breasted Jacket, with one row of Buttons only, and coat-sleeves.

Model 2 - This costume is made in Roubaix, Matelasse, and Silk. The skirt has two plisse flounces of the material, and one of silk made with a French hem all arranged in a rounded form on the front breadth, and straight at the back. The tunic is trimmed with a bias band of the silk, is pointed in front and oblong at the back, one point falling at the side, the other caught up gracefully. The bodice is made with revers and bias bands of the silk and a plaited jockey basque.

Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - April 1889 Peterson's Magazine

Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - April 1889 Peterson's Magazine

House-Dress, of Foulard. The underskirt is of striped material, made plain, and fastened on the right side with simulated buttonholes. The overdress is of plain foulard, with long draperies, turned back on the right side at the front. The bodice is made of the plain foulard, rounded at the waist, fastened with large crocheted buttons, and has collar, revers, and cuffs of the striped foulard. The sleeves are short and full.

Walking-Dress, of Plain and Plaid Woolen Material. The underskirt is of the plain woolen and quite untrimmed. The overdress is of a rich dull plaid woolen, open at the sides and falling in long straight folds. The plain bodice has a vest, collar, and cuffs of the plaid, and is trimmed on either side of the vest with crochet-buttons. Toque of silk to match the dress in color. This costume would look well made up in some of the new plaid ginghams.

Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - Spring/Summer 1898 H. O'Neill & Co. Catalog

Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - Spring/Summer 1898 H. O'Neill & Co. Catalog

No. 132 - Suit of Fancy Organdy, tight fitting bodice waist, boned throughout on separate lining, front three knife plaited ruffles, edged with lace, sleeves and choker to match, belt and collar of satin ribbon, new three gored skirt with deep flounce; price $4.98.

No. 134 - Figured Lappet Suit, front of waist white organdy reveres trimmed with embroidery and insertion, apron front skirt, ruffle at bottom, pink, light blue, lavender, black and white; price $9.98.

No. 136 - Lawn Suit, ruffle edged with embroidery forming yoke, two rows of insertion to waist; price $6.98.

No. 138 - White Pique Eton Suit, waist and skirt trimmed in colored braid, small pearl buttons on waist; price $9.98.

No. 140 - Suit of Dimity, waist trimmed with fichu of lace, ruffles over shoulder and cuffs, skirt three ruffles at top, one at bottom, pink, light blue and lavender; price $19.00.

No. 142 - Figured Lappet Suit, front of white mull, pique collar and cuffs, trimmed with embroidery, deep ruffle on skirt with three bias folds of pique; ribbon, collar and belt, light blue, red and black; price $15.98

No. 144 - White Pique Blazer Suit, jacket trimmed with embroidery and insertion; price $10.00

No. 146 - White Pique Blouse Suit, trimmed with braid ribbon belt and bow, blue, red, navy and black braid; price $13.75.

No. 148 - Fancy Madras Stripe, shirt effect front showing solid color of tucks, reveres swiss edging between, choker to match, belt of satin ribbon, full circular skirt five inch knife plaited ruffle; price $3.98.

No. 150 - Suit of Linen Crash, piped with colored braid; price $7.98.

No. 152 - Two-Pieced Suit, fancy plaid and striped, waist full blouse front, two box plaits in back, full skirt, deep hem; price $1.98.

No. 154 - Suit of Gingham, in checks and stripes, waist with three rows of satin ribbon all round yoke, cuffs and belt, full skirt, six inch, knife plaited ruffle; price $3.25.

No. 156 - Striped Galatea Blazer, with inlaid white pique collar and front, light blue, navy and pink; price $5.98.

No. 158 - Figured Lappet Suit, tucked yoke, fluted ruffles edged with ribbon, lavender, pink, light blue, black and white; price $13.98.

Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - September 1880 Peterson's Magazine

Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - September 1880 Peterson's Magazine

Walking-Dress of Black Cashmere
The skirt has two deep side-plaitings of black silk. The tunic is draped upwards in deep folds the entire length of the front, and the back is caught up loosely in one or two places, is made long, and looped over carelessly at the bottom. The cape mantle is of the cashmere, draped at the back as well as on the chest, and is trimmed with a deep silk fringe, loops and long ends of ribbon, and a quilling of black lace around the neck. The round, black straw hat is trimmed with black surah silk and an old gold feather.

House-Dress of Cream-colored French Bunting
The lower part of the skirt is made of many tucks, about an inch and a half wide, and is finished at the bottom by a narrow knife-plaiting of the bunting. A shirred panel of bunting is also placed up the left side of the skirt. The upper part of the skirt is very much draped at the sides, and has a shawl point in front, and is looped rather high at the back. Small paniers pass from under the cuirass waist, and form drapery at the back. The close-fitting waist has a fichu collar, which is trimmed with Lanquedoc lace.

Ulster of Gray Cloth
with dolman-shaped sleeves. It is double-breasted, and the collar and sleeves are finished by several rows of machine stitching.

Walking-Dress of Chestnut-Brown
camel's hair and silk. The petticoat is of silk, with a deep side-plaited flounce. The over-dress is of camel's hair, turned up short in front (milk-maid style), and gracefully draped in the back. The coat is of chestnut-brown silk and wool material, with a small Oriental pattern over it. The collar and under-cuffs are of the silk like the skirt. Yellow straw bonnet, trimmed with one large red rose and red strings.

Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - February 1870 Peterson's Magazine

Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - February 1870 Peterson's Magazine

House-Dress of Blue Silk
The skirt is only of medium length, and is trimmed with one deep flounce, headed with two narrow bands of silk. Upper-skirt of blue and white striped silk, also trimmed with a flounce and two bias bands of the blue silk. This skirt is made like a polonaise at the waist, and is seen in front beneath the blue cape, which opens there in two points. The sleeves, pannier at the back, and bows, are all of the plain blue silk. The upper-skirt reaches to the top of the flounce in front.

Walking-Dress of Black Silk
Flounce round the bottom, with a fluted heading and two rows of black velvet. Tunic fringed with a fluting and two rows of velvet. This tunic is looped up at the back and forms a large puff. Plain bodice, trimmed with a pastroon of black velvet, and a fringe forming a collar at the back. Sleeves with velvet revers. Oval-shaped hat of black velvet, with bow of velvet and aigrette of feathers.

Late Victorian Era Fashions - Ladies' Dresses - Museum Originals (1866-1876 First Bustle Period)

Late Victorian Era Fashions - Ladies' Dresses - Museum Originals (1866-1876 First Bustle Period)

A selection of links to museum originals -

1860s Brown Silk Dress - Whitaker Auction
Very nice interior photo on 2nd page.

1870's Blue and White Voile Dress - Whitaker Auction
Close-up front photo

Printed Silk Bustle Dress - Whitaker Auction
Close-up front photo

1868 3-piece Day Dress - Whitaker Auction

1870 Brown Silk Visiting Dress - Whitaker Auction

1870 4-piece Traveling Dress - Whitaker Auction

1870 French Silk Visiting Dress - Whitaker Auction

1870 Maroon Silk Moire Day Dress - Whitaker Auction

1870 Trained Silk Day Dress - Whitaker Auction

1871 Tartan Plaid Silk Taffeta Dress - Whitaker Auction

Your comments about dating, fabrics, construction methods, etc. are most welcome!