Late Victorian Era Ladies' Dresses - October 1895 The Delineator
This conservative-looking toilette is made of gray crinkled mohair, and has a graceful five-gored skirt, and a basque with removable chemisette which permits of pleasing color changes. The skirt is smooth fitting at the top of the front and sides and breaks into stylish ripples below the hips. At the back it is arranged in backward-turning plaits that expand gradually toward the lower edge.
The round basque extends to a becoming depth over the hips and is adjusted with the utmost accuracy by double bust darts and the usual seams. The fronts are lapped in double-breasted style and closed at the left side with button-holes and buttons; above the closing they are reversed in lapels that are of the same width as the ends of the rolling collar, which they meet in narrow notches. A linen chemisette having a high collar with Piccadilly ends is revealed between the fronts and is completed with a neat satin band-bow. Large one-seam leg-o'-mutton sleeves that are gathered at the top and stand out with bouffant effect complete the basque.
Smart visiting, travelling or promenade costumes may be made up in this manner, for the tailor gown when well fitted is an attractive rival of pretentious toilettes. Scotch mixtures, serge, mohair and cloth are popular materials in which to develop the mode.
The hat is a gray Alpine felt trimmed with a fancy braid band and quill feathers.
Figure 269P - Ladies' Visiting Toilette
A dressy combination of wool goods, velvet and plain and brocaded silk is shown in this handsome toilette. The full vest, which is gathered at the top and bottom is of plain silk decorated with length-wise rows of narrow lace edging and droops slightly in French style over a wrinkled belt-section of plain silk. The jacket fronts extend considerably below the vest and are fitted by single bust darts; and the back, which is close-fitting, displays a laid-on box-plait at the center and stylish ripples below the waist-line. A novel feature is the sailor collar, which has jabot ends extending to the waist-line; it is of velvet bordered with lace insertion and passes under the box-plait on the back. Two lace-edged Paquin tabs of plain silk fall over the wrinkled stock, and the large leg-o'-mutton sleeves of brocaded silk are bouffant at the top and close on the forearm. Three large fancy buttons decorate the front edges of the jacket fronts below the waist-line.
The two-piece skirt is novel and graceful, being in circular style with a seam at each side. It fits the figure smoothly at the top and breaks into rolling flutes below the hips and at the back. A cording of velvet completes the lower edges of the skirt.
Combinations of two or more fabrics may enter into a toilette of this kind, with stylish effect. Silk, crepon, Bedford cord, mohair, cheviot and cloth will make up stylishly, and silk may be used for the full vest. Lace, buttons, velvet or bands of jetted or silk-cord passementerie may be used as garniture.
The felt hat is trimmed with fancy braid, quill feathers and ribbon.