Thursday, February 24, 2011

Gentlemen's Fashion - February 1868 Gazette of Fashion

Gentlemen's Fashions - February 1868 Gazette of Fashion

We have given the illustration of a smart style of short jacket for morning wear on the first figure of the uncoloured engraving. It is cut like a Tweedside or lounge jacket, whole in the back, or with a seam to fancy. Double-breasted, broad lapel cut on, and four holes worked in it. Narrow collar, but broader at the end, although much narrower than the top of the lapel. The lapels, collar, and fronts are faced with quilted silk, or stitched in diamonds. The sleeve is rather wide, and plain at the hand. Pockets with welts or small flaps at front of the forepart. Edges turned in and stitched, or trimmed with a broad braid sewn on flat.

The frock-coat, represented on the other figure, has no new feature to introduce it to the notice of the trade, but is a fair specimen of the style which generally prevails in the best houses. We have substituted velvet for silk on the fronts and lapels, and have introduced it on the collar and for cuffs. The edges are braided.

Single-breasted waistcoats are, perhaps, more worn at the present time; either without a collar, and to button up moderately high, or with a small roll. They are a trifle longer at front.

Several of the leading houses have been occupied with making up "tapestry work" in waistcoats. This article was much patronized many years ago, especially for hunting. They were then made double-breasted, and the lapels and collar faced with velvet. The appearance was very effective.

Trousers for morning wear are not yet cut close to the leg; in fact, we do not find that the proportions have undergone much change lately. There is one thing, however, which evidently we may shortly look for as a positive fact, that borders will be revived. With neat patterns in the goods, that was to be expected, after a sufficient interval had been allowed, so as to give the style a chance for its novelty.

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