Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - December 1883 Peterson's Magazine
Our Paris Letter
Rue Des Petits Champs,
Stamped velvet, or rather valvet-flowered satin, is highly in favor this season for handsome toilettes, either for visiting or dinner-dress. The figures are very large, and are in various styles, sometimes the pattern being in dark velvet on satin of a lighter hue, and at others the flowers or fruits are in shades of their natural tints on a pale-colored background. The patterns are very varied, the newest being oak-leaves and acorns in dark velvet on light satin, very large dahlias and chrysanthemums, in the same style, and branches of fruit, such as peaches and plums, in their natural colors, as finely shaded as a water-color, on cream-white or pale-blue satin. The new copper-red - known as volcano-color - blends admirably with the last style of material.
Worth now shows for walking-dresses a front in stamped velvet placed over the underskirt, which is in satin, the draped back of the skirt being in satin. Another of his models blends satin, ottoman-silk, and velvet, the skirt-front having an apron-overskirt of ottoman-silk caught up to the waist at one side s as to show a satin underskirt, plaited from waist to hem, and bordered with a two-inch wide band of velvet. The back of the skirt is formed of velvet draperies, and the corsage is a plain short cuirass of velvet.
Worth is employing a dark rich shade of brown very extensively, even for full-dress occasions. In satin, combined with a brilliant gold-yellow, the effect of this hue is admirable.
Cloaks of stamped velvet, in dark colors, lined with satin or plush in vivid violet or scarlet, and trimmed with bead fringes and passementerie, are very much in vogue. Almost any shape can be worn, the styles being decidedly eclectic. In the way of trimmings, heavy handsome fringes in jet beads and chenille are the most effective. Less costly, and very showy, are the wide network fringes in narrow worsted braid, hung with round balls, which are used for covering the underskirts of walking-dresses in cashmere. They are worn in hues contrasting with the underskirt itself: such as red on navy-blue, black on dove-color, or silver-gray and dark-brown on beige-color. There is a positive run on neutral-tints this season, all shades of brown and gray being especially favored - that is, so far as dresses and cloaks are concerned.
Bonnets and hats - to relieve the more sombre hues of the costumes - are frequently shown in very brilliant colors. The bonnets are still very small, but there is a slight modification in the crowns, which are sometimes seen in set flat shapes. For ornamenting bonnets in dark velvet, the head and neck of a tropical bird, in very delicate hues, are combined with the breast of another bird, also in some pale tint, and the effect is exquisite - the palest pinks, blues, and cream-tints in plumage being employed on dark brown and olive-green velvet. Scarlet-velvet roses shrouded in black lace are seen on the small capote-bonnets of a darker red. Bonnets of pale-blue or of pale-pink English crape, with fronts formed of a puff of velvet matching the crape in hue, are shown for evening-wear. The bonnet is formed of crossed scarfs of the crape at the back, meeting the puffed velvet brim.
Morning-dresses are more elegant and elaborate than ever. The richest styles are formed of Princess-cut dresses - that is, all in one - of plush or ottoman-silk, trimmed with fur, and opening over elaborate lace underskirts. Sometimes the underskirt is composed of a series of narrow lace flounces; at others, it is formed of full or transverse draperies of lace, or rather of rich silk lace-net. If the wearer has a very slender figure, a blouse-vest of the lace is admissible, confined in place by a sash of narrow satin ribbon. A less dressy morning-toilette is composed of a sacque and skirt in cashmere. The first is rather short, and is bordered by an inch-and-a-half-wide plaiting of cashmere, headed by a band of velvet of the same width. The skirt is formed of a single kilt-plaiting from waist to hem.
Fans are of medium size, except when formed of ostrich-feathers, and they may then be as large as the fancy of the owner may dictate. The Spanish fan, with gilt carved sticks, and with a narrow leaf in gold-spangled crape, is very much in vogue for opera or dinner-wear. Plainted-satin fans, with sticks of violet wood or ebony, relieved with gold, are much used for dinner-toilettes. A new and very effective style is in black crape, with the design - such as cupids, watteau-personages, etc. - painted in shades of gold, the sticks being in gilt wood or in ebony and gold. Tortoise shell mountings are less in favor this season, except for ostrich-feather fans, mother-of-pearl and ivory being more extensively employed for the more dressy styles. In some of the newer fans the leaf is so large as to take up two-thirds of the expanse, and is very beautiful, showing designs of fruit elaborately painted by hand on white or black satin.
The Jrsey has been adopted in Paris at last, and has become the rage. Silk Jerseys - such as were fashionable in England - are not seen; but in worsted, the variety is great. They are shown plain, or braided, or trimmed with heavy braid, and closed with frogs. The result of their success is that very thin and very stout women are often seen in them, with most disastrous effect. They are invariably worn with skirts to match them in hue.
Stockings embroidered with beads, either in jet or colors, are amongst the latest innovations. Sometimes the instep shows a very fantastic pattern, such as a beehive with bees hovering around it, in shades of amber and olive silk and beads, on a pale-blue silk stocking, or a lizard, in ruby, gold, and emerald beads, on a black-silk one. Jet arabesques on black-silk stockings, and similar designs in gold and amber on dark-red ones, are in better taste. A very pretty style has a fine lattice-work in jet or steel beads, on black silk, on the instep.
House-shoes are cut very low in front, and are elaborately worked with beads, the little bow on the front of the slipper being also embroidered with beads.
Lucy H. Hooper.
Showing posts with label Fashion Chit Chat. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fashion Chit Chat. Show all posts
Sunday, April 28, 2013
Wednesday, April 24, 2013
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - December 1883 Peterson's Magazine
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - December 1883 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks
All shades of gray are exceedingly popular; but care should be taken to select a warm tone, as the colder ones are so often unbecoming. But our readers have a large range of colors to select from, as browns, greens, and dark-reds are all sought after. In fact, the fancy can always decide the color, and the wearer can be sure to be in the fashion. Two, and even three, materials are much used in making up a dress - silk and velvet, or brocaded satin, or camel's hair, or any of the numerous rich goods which are now so plentiful, can be employed in the making-up of the new winter-dresses. Both materials may be plain, or one plain and the other figured; in this way, two, or even three, old dresses may be made up to look like a new one of the latest style.
Skirts are still close-clinging in front, but are growing more and more bouffant at the back. Of course, all waists and basques must be cut with sufficient "spring" to allow for the extra fullness at the back.
The mode of making the waists is as varied as possible: long or rather shorter bodices, plain or much-trimmed. Those closed to the throat, or open at the neck, are all equally fashionable, only care must be taken that the open bodice, or the much-trimmed one, is not worn at inappropriate times. For persons whose wardrobe affords but few dresses, the less pronounced and marked ones are in better taste, as the date of a very much trimmed dress is apt to be remembered.
Sleeves are still put in high, and rather full at the shoulders; and the extremely tight sleeves, making the arms look like sticks, are no longer the fashion, though great pains is taken to have this important part of the dress fit well.
Black dresses can be varied in appearance by putting on a gathered jabot of colored silk or satin, with a band of the same round the neck, and a black waistband. A kind of Norfolk jacket is a good deal worn as a dress-bodice, with three plaits back and front, or else with gaugings at the neck and waist. These bodices are cut straight round the jacket, and only extend about six or seven inches below the outside waistband. They are very suitable for slim figures.
Wraps are of all shapes, and in the more dressy kinds are frequently made of two materials; the long square-sleeved Russian cloak is much liked, as it is so comfortable; the tighter-fitting coat or jacket is jaunty-looking, but has the disadvantage of not being easily removed in the house or at church. Lace, chenille - or other kinds of fringe - and fur, are all used. Many of the expensive new cloaks are lined with gay silk or satin; sometimes brocaded silk is employed.
Bonnets are generally small, though larger ones are seen; the crowns are made ample, and often square, to fit the hair, which is now usually worn high on the head.
In hats, the Henri Trois is the leading shape, with its high stiff crown and straight brim. The crowns here are also important, being large enough to take in the coil of hair which the Parisians now set on the top of their heads, having repudiated the classic Greek knot in the nape of the neck.
Felt hats are trimmed with lustreless cloth of light quality, with velvet of short pile, and with terry velvet. The ribbons used are mostly reversible - plain velvet on one side, and repped velvet on the other; then there is the new Astrakan ribbon, woven in loops or tufts.
Gray is likely to be the leading color in millinery, and the newest bonnet-trimmings are steel net and steel lace, woven of metallic threads, but very fine and filmy-looking. Escurial lace and heavy ficello lace are much used, so are large beads - principally jet or tortoise-shell - in eccentric shapes - pear-shaped, spiked, and oblong.
Dark-red velvet, trimmed with black lace, or having a network of black chenille over it, is also a style that is much liked to brighten up black or other dark costumes. Bonnets partly made of the material of the dress are also popular. Strings are often made of a reversible material - such as velvet on one side, and satin on the other. Silver and gold braids are frequently employed for the whole hat, and at other times trim velver and satin for more dressy wear. Feathers, wings, and whole birds are much used for hats and bonnets.
General Remarks
All shades of gray are exceedingly popular; but care should be taken to select a warm tone, as the colder ones are so often unbecoming. But our readers have a large range of colors to select from, as browns, greens, and dark-reds are all sought after. In fact, the fancy can always decide the color, and the wearer can be sure to be in the fashion. Two, and even three, materials are much used in making up a dress - silk and velvet, or brocaded satin, or camel's hair, or any of the numerous rich goods which are now so plentiful, can be employed in the making-up of the new winter-dresses. Both materials may be plain, or one plain and the other figured; in this way, two, or even three, old dresses may be made up to look like a new one of the latest style.
Skirts are still close-clinging in front, but are growing more and more bouffant at the back. Of course, all waists and basques must be cut with sufficient "spring" to allow for the extra fullness at the back.
The mode of making the waists is as varied as possible: long or rather shorter bodices, plain or much-trimmed. Those closed to the throat, or open at the neck, are all equally fashionable, only care must be taken that the open bodice, or the much-trimmed one, is not worn at inappropriate times. For persons whose wardrobe affords but few dresses, the less pronounced and marked ones are in better taste, as the date of a very much trimmed dress is apt to be remembered.
Sleeves are still put in high, and rather full at the shoulders; and the extremely tight sleeves, making the arms look like sticks, are no longer the fashion, though great pains is taken to have this important part of the dress fit well.
Black dresses can be varied in appearance by putting on a gathered jabot of colored silk or satin, with a band of the same round the neck, and a black waistband. A kind of Norfolk jacket is a good deal worn as a dress-bodice, with three plaits back and front, or else with gaugings at the neck and waist. These bodices are cut straight round the jacket, and only extend about six or seven inches below the outside waistband. They are very suitable for slim figures.
Wraps are of all shapes, and in the more dressy kinds are frequently made of two materials; the long square-sleeved Russian cloak is much liked, as it is so comfortable; the tighter-fitting coat or jacket is jaunty-looking, but has the disadvantage of not being easily removed in the house or at church. Lace, chenille - or other kinds of fringe - and fur, are all used. Many of the expensive new cloaks are lined with gay silk or satin; sometimes brocaded silk is employed.
Bonnets are generally small, though larger ones are seen; the crowns are made ample, and often square, to fit the hair, which is now usually worn high on the head.
In hats, the Henri Trois is the leading shape, with its high stiff crown and straight brim. The crowns here are also important, being large enough to take in the coil of hair which the Parisians now set on the top of their heads, having repudiated the classic Greek knot in the nape of the neck.
Felt hats are trimmed with lustreless cloth of light quality, with velvet of short pile, and with terry velvet. The ribbons used are mostly reversible - plain velvet on one side, and repped velvet on the other; then there is the new Astrakan ribbon, woven in loops or tufts.
Gray is likely to be the leading color in millinery, and the newest bonnet-trimmings are steel net and steel lace, woven of metallic threads, but very fine and filmy-looking. Escurial lace and heavy ficello lace are much used, so are large beads - principally jet or tortoise-shell - in eccentric shapes - pear-shaped, spiked, and oblong.
Dark-red velvet, trimmed with black lace, or having a network of black chenille over it, is also a style that is much liked to brighten up black or other dark costumes. Bonnets partly made of the material of the dress are also popular. Strings are often made of a reversible material - such as velvet on one side, and satin on the other. Silver and gold braids are frequently employed for the whole hat, and at other times trim velver and satin for more dressy wear. Feathers, wings, and whole birds are much used for hats and bonnets.
Monday, February 18, 2013
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - July 1875 Peterson's Magazine
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - July 1875 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks
We also give a beautiful summer fichu of white net, trimmed with Malines, or other softly-falling lace, and a violet and white twilled silk fichu, trimmed with a fringe. Either of these are very becoming to slender figures. The two hats are also of the newest styles; but only two varieties out of myriads.
Summer always brings out charming toilets in thin, vapory materials, which, though they look so inexpensive, sadly belie their appearance. White muslins, organdies, lawns, batistes, besides innumerable grenadines, and other thin, silky materials are only simple at the first glance. The rufflings and the puffings, and the silk under-dresses, all make the summer toilet a somewhat costly affair.
Many ladies now use the delicate pink, blue, or violet lawns (plain ones of course) in the place of silk, for slips under their dresses.
Plaitings, and especially marguerite plaitings, which are as fine and as closely laid as the petals of that flower, and look like crimping, are decidedly the favorite trimmings at present. The long tablier reaching to the foot, has abolished wide flounces on the skirt, it being found that two narrow platings on the front and side breadths, and several rows on the back breadths, form a more effective trimming. These plaitings are sometimes sewn by machine, but they are better with flat hems held by blind stitches. Sometimes the raw edge of the silk is merely turned up once and secured by what is called "cut stitching;" but, at any rate, the plaits should be always pressed flatly and left to flare open; if they are deeper than the eighth of a yard, they should be caught by a thread in the centre on the wrong side. Plaitings are also intermixed with fronces - or, as these are called sometimes, drawings, gatherings, or shirrings; but, with all this multiplicity of names, they are nothing more nor less than the material drawn up into a wrinkle by means of threads run through it, each from half to three-quarters of an inch apart. A strip of the material, from four to eight inches wide, is used for these gatherings.
The bodices that are made with five seams at the back, and without curved side-pieces, are gaining ground with the public. The seams each side of the one in the centre of the back commence, as a matter of course, on the top of the shoulder; they are held in position by slender whalebones, which are carried to the end of the three centre seams. The difference between the Joan of Arc bodice and the cuirass (both of which are popular,) is that the former is slightly hollowed out, or describes somewhat of a curve, whilst the latter is straight all round.
BLack silk guipure is again in fashion. Those who possess deep guipure flounces can utilize them advantageously by mounting them on stiff net, and without any fullness, in rows one close to the other. This makes a charming Spanish tunic or tablier, which can be worn over a variety of dresses; the sleeveless bodice is also cut out in net and covered with piece-guipure. Guipure is used in the same manner over white silk, and can be worn thus over light silk dresses.
Straw fringes are in vogue for trimming light dresses, and several stylish ball toilets are ornamented with black ribbon velvet embroidered with straw.
Skirts are now bordered inside with narrow flounces of Swiss or Madeira work, and with cambric plaitings, edged with Valenciennes lace. These additions to the lining of a skirt are called balais or sweeping-brooms. Formerly they were only to be seen onball-dresses, but now they are added to most skirts with trains and demi-trains. Black silk stockings are more fashionable than any others just at present, and there is great variety in them; some are open-worked, some are studded all over with flowerets of various hues, and some are of two widely-contrasting colors, the leg being violet and the foot white, with fine violet stripes; in others, on the contrary, the foot is scarlet, and the leg alternate stripes of scarlet and white. These silk stockings are worn under shoes with high heels and fancy buckles, and they generally correspond in some measure with the toilet worn at the time.
General Remarks
We also give a beautiful summer fichu of white net, trimmed with Malines, or other softly-falling lace, and a violet and white twilled silk fichu, trimmed with a fringe. Either of these are very becoming to slender figures. The two hats are also of the newest styles; but only two varieties out of myriads.
Summer always brings out charming toilets in thin, vapory materials, which, though they look so inexpensive, sadly belie their appearance. White muslins, organdies, lawns, batistes, besides innumerable grenadines, and other thin, silky materials are only simple at the first glance. The rufflings and the puffings, and the silk under-dresses, all make the summer toilet a somewhat costly affair.
Many ladies now use the delicate pink, blue, or violet lawns (plain ones of course) in the place of silk, for slips under their dresses.
Plaitings, and especially marguerite plaitings, which are as fine and as closely laid as the petals of that flower, and look like crimping, are decidedly the favorite trimmings at present. The long tablier reaching to the foot, has abolished wide flounces on the skirt, it being found that two narrow platings on the front and side breadths, and several rows on the back breadths, form a more effective trimming. These plaitings are sometimes sewn by machine, but they are better with flat hems held by blind stitches. Sometimes the raw edge of the silk is merely turned up once and secured by what is called "cut stitching;" but, at any rate, the plaits should be always pressed flatly and left to flare open; if they are deeper than the eighth of a yard, they should be caught by a thread in the centre on the wrong side. Plaitings are also intermixed with fronces - or, as these are called sometimes, drawings, gatherings, or shirrings; but, with all this multiplicity of names, they are nothing more nor less than the material drawn up into a wrinkle by means of threads run through it, each from half to three-quarters of an inch apart. A strip of the material, from four to eight inches wide, is used for these gatherings.
The bodices that are made with five seams at the back, and without curved side-pieces, are gaining ground with the public. The seams each side of the one in the centre of the back commence, as a matter of course, on the top of the shoulder; they are held in position by slender whalebones, which are carried to the end of the three centre seams. The difference between the Joan of Arc bodice and the cuirass (both of which are popular,) is that the former is slightly hollowed out, or describes somewhat of a curve, whilst the latter is straight all round.
BLack silk guipure is again in fashion. Those who possess deep guipure flounces can utilize them advantageously by mounting them on stiff net, and without any fullness, in rows one close to the other. This makes a charming Spanish tunic or tablier, which can be worn over a variety of dresses; the sleeveless bodice is also cut out in net and covered with piece-guipure. Guipure is used in the same manner over white silk, and can be worn thus over light silk dresses.
Straw fringes are in vogue for trimming light dresses, and several stylish ball toilets are ornamented with black ribbon velvet embroidered with straw.
Skirts are now bordered inside with narrow flounces of Swiss or Madeira work, and with cambric plaitings, edged with Valenciennes lace. These additions to the lining of a skirt are called balais or sweeping-brooms. Formerly they were only to be seen onball-dresses, but now they are added to most skirts with trains and demi-trains. Black silk stockings are more fashionable than any others just at present, and there is great variety in them; some are open-worked, some are studded all over with flowerets of various hues, and some are of two widely-contrasting colors, the leg being violet and the foot white, with fine violet stripes; in others, on the contrary, the foot is scarlet, and the leg alternate stripes of scarlet and white. These silk stockings are worn under shoes with high heels and fancy buckles, and they generally correspond in some measure with the toilet worn at the time.
Saturday, December 29, 2012
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - June 1889 Peterson's Magazine
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - June 1889 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks
For summer dresses, the round belted bodice is very popular. Plaits, gathers, collars, and vests are seen in all the new dresses; somehow and somewhere, a trimming of some kind must be placed. To nearly all figures, this is becoming; to the very slender, eminently so; to the fuller figure, a long revers from the shoulder, bringing it nearly to a point at the waist, is very advantageous, as it breaks the plain expanse over the bust and at the waist.
Skirt-draperies will retain the straight narrow look. For stuff dresses, the coat appearance, opening in front over a plaited, gathered, or fancy front, is popular; while at the back the skirt falls in long lines without looping. But thinner materials need a little more draping. Some ginghams and other thin dresses, however, have the skirts simply gathered at the waist and fall straight to the hem.
Bustles, cushions, and dress-stiffeners are very much reduced in size, some women dispensing with them altogether.
The sleeves are more comfortable-looking and much more becoming then the tight tailor-made ones lately worn. These sleeves are only moderately full at the armhole and down the arm, not like the leg-of-mutton sleeve of fifty years ago. For thin dresses, they are often much fuller.
Shoulder-seams are short, on some French dresses very short, and sleeves stand full and high on the shoulders.
All dresses have a noticeably simple appearance, and are more easily made at home than formerly.
The Marie-Antoinette fichu is again popular. In France, it is the fashion, and here it will no doubt be revived by the Washington Inauguration Centennial, as the becomingness of it will be seen by all who examine Martha Washington's picture; hers is usually represented as a plain one, while the new ones have frilled borders. They are rounded at the back and cut with long tapering ends, which sometimes cross on the bust and tie at the back; in other cases, they tie on the bust, with the ends fastened down at the waist.
Sashes of wide ribbon, surah, etc., are much worn.
For party-dresses for young girls, nothing is prettier than long sprays of ivy-leaves; these are used to trim the skirt, as the fancy may dictate, the bodice, shoulders, hair, etc.
Short mantles, but having long ends in front and triple capes, are much worn.
Bonnets are quite small, low, and trimmed with a profusion of flowers; the Alsatian bow is also popular.
Hats have large brims in front, with a much narrower one at the back, and very low crowns; these are also trimmed with May-flowers; but the shapes of the hats are very varied and are often picturesque, also often very ugly and exaggerated. They are bent and twisted is such marvelous manners as to defy description; but the effect is of a cunning adjustment of lace or tulle, with a few flowers carelessly thrown among the folds. Lace hats are to be worn, and trimmings of lace on straw hats, and transparent materials generally. Ribbon, too, is employed - not so exclusively as of late, but in combination with soft millinery materials and flowers.
Our Paris Letter
Rue des Petits Champs
We are gradually getting used to the changes in the styles of ladies' dresses, and, whereas a year ago a straight-falling skirt would have looked odd and unfashionable to the last degree, the apparition of some conservative lady, who still clings to the dress-improver, is now quite as extraordinary and out of style. The backs of skirts now present merely a gentle slope, a cushion and a couple of steel hoops of moderate dimensions being all that is accorded to hold out the flat-plaited folds.
The accordeon-plaits continue to be highly popular and are certainly graceful, but they have one marked defect; they are very expensive. The summer evening-dresses for young girls are mostly in tulle with accordeon-plaited skirts and low-necked corsages in folds of the material, crossed transversely with flat folds, and finished with a sash in surah encircling the waist. No contrast of color is admitted into these very tasteful dresses, the surah sash matching the tulle. Short skirts for evening wear are wholly abandoned, except for very young girls. Long trains, however, are only worn for full ball-dress. The short demi-train is universally adopted for dinner or reception dresses, but short skirts for promenade or traveling wear still hold their own.
There is quite a revulsion from the rage for colored under-garments, and pink and blue and lilac batiste for handkerchiefs and underwear have given place to pure white, and cambric is again in vogue. There is talk of substituting white thread stockings for the colored hosiery that has so long been popular; but, as white stockings increase the apparent size of the foot and ankle, it will be some time before that innovation is adopted.
A favorite combination this season is the union of pekin and plain materials of precisely the same shade in one costume. The pekin is in narrow stripes, either in satin and faille or in watered silk and satin. It comes also in light worsted stuffs. The corsage and the straight folds of the skirt are made of the pekin, and the plaited underskirt or the soft full draperies are of the plain material. Worth has composed dresses entirely of pekin, with immense revers at either side of the skirt, formed by turning back an entire breadth in a pointed shawl-shape. The pekin thus employed is in inch-wide stripes of taffetas and satin, in contrasting colors, and the effect is very striking.
In the way of hats and bonnets, the sudden lowering of high crowns and lofty trimmings has set every lady to remodeling her last season's headgear. Everything in the way of millinery is light and aerial, or else compact and severe-looking. Full-dress bonnets are the daintiest little things imaginable, being in pale-tinted gauze or tulle, or else all in small spring flowers that completely cover the frame. Heather, forget-me-nots, and lilies of the valley are much used for these picturesque little bonnets. Then there are fine straws, trimmed with bttercups or with violets, and others in gold braid or passementerie, or in fine gold gauze. Hats in fine black straw with very wide brims, having a band of insertion in delicate black horse-hair lace let into the brim about its centre, are trimmed with black lace and flowers and black ribbons, or else with a combination of black lace and jet butterflies or dragon-flies. That last mode of trimming is very effective, bit is rather heavy for the hat itself.
The summer cloaks and wraps are very pretty, and by no means expensive. The most attractive are probably those in black lace, made to cover the toilette entirely, and having very wide falling sleeves and a lining of thin silk. Sometimes the skirt is bordered with rows of watered ribbon. The wide sleeves are left unlined. These lace cloaks really take the place of a dress. Very charming ones for watering-place wear are made in white lace, either lined with colored silk, or having the lining in white silk with pale-blue or pink ribbons put underneath the lace so as to define the bands in the pattern. For everyday wear, these long cloaks are made of black surah or of changeable satin merveilleux, and have belts of ribbon or else bands of ribbon encircling the waist, with loops and long ends falling in front. The short graceful mantelets, in black or colored silks or sicilienne, trimmed with ruffles of wide black lace, are still worn and are very popular.
Parasols are still extremely large.
Green is the color most in vogue this season, and it is shown in all varieties of shades, from the darkest bottle-green to the new faint tint called varnish-green, which is as near white as a color can possibly be. A very beautiful shade, being at once light and brilliant, is called the Nile-reed. Lake-blue, another new color, is a shade between sky-blue and electric-blue.
There is talk of reviving the old-fashioned barege, so dear to the hearts of our grandmothers. It would be a material just suited to the present cut of dresses.
Lucy H. Hooper.
General Remarks
For summer dresses, the round belted bodice is very popular. Plaits, gathers, collars, and vests are seen in all the new dresses; somehow and somewhere, a trimming of some kind must be placed. To nearly all figures, this is becoming; to the very slender, eminently so; to the fuller figure, a long revers from the shoulder, bringing it nearly to a point at the waist, is very advantageous, as it breaks the plain expanse over the bust and at the waist.
Skirt-draperies will retain the straight narrow look. For stuff dresses, the coat appearance, opening in front over a plaited, gathered, or fancy front, is popular; while at the back the skirt falls in long lines without looping. But thinner materials need a little more draping. Some ginghams and other thin dresses, however, have the skirts simply gathered at the waist and fall straight to the hem.
Bustles, cushions, and dress-stiffeners are very much reduced in size, some women dispensing with them altogether.
The sleeves are more comfortable-looking and much more becoming then the tight tailor-made ones lately worn. These sleeves are only moderately full at the armhole and down the arm, not like the leg-of-mutton sleeve of fifty years ago. For thin dresses, they are often much fuller.
Shoulder-seams are short, on some French dresses very short, and sleeves stand full and high on the shoulders.
All dresses have a noticeably simple appearance, and are more easily made at home than formerly.
The Marie-Antoinette fichu is again popular. In France, it is the fashion, and here it will no doubt be revived by the Washington Inauguration Centennial, as the becomingness of it will be seen by all who examine Martha Washington's picture; hers is usually represented as a plain one, while the new ones have frilled borders. They are rounded at the back and cut with long tapering ends, which sometimes cross on the bust and tie at the back; in other cases, they tie on the bust, with the ends fastened down at the waist.
Sashes of wide ribbon, surah, etc., are much worn.
For party-dresses for young girls, nothing is prettier than long sprays of ivy-leaves; these are used to trim the skirt, as the fancy may dictate, the bodice, shoulders, hair, etc.
Short mantles, but having long ends in front and triple capes, are much worn.
Bonnets are quite small, low, and trimmed with a profusion of flowers; the Alsatian bow is also popular.
Hats have large brims in front, with a much narrower one at the back, and very low crowns; these are also trimmed with May-flowers; but the shapes of the hats are very varied and are often picturesque, also often very ugly and exaggerated. They are bent and twisted is such marvelous manners as to defy description; but the effect is of a cunning adjustment of lace or tulle, with a few flowers carelessly thrown among the folds. Lace hats are to be worn, and trimmings of lace on straw hats, and transparent materials generally. Ribbon, too, is employed - not so exclusively as of late, but in combination with soft millinery materials and flowers.
Our Paris Letter
Rue des Petits Champs
We are gradually getting used to the changes in the styles of ladies' dresses, and, whereas a year ago a straight-falling skirt would have looked odd and unfashionable to the last degree, the apparition of some conservative lady, who still clings to the dress-improver, is now quite as extraordinary and out of style. The backs of skirts now present merely a gentle slope, a cushion and a couple of steel hoops of moderate dimensions being all that is accorded to hold out the flat-plaited folds.
The accordeon-plaits continue to be highly popular and are certainly graceful, but they have one marked defect; they are very expensive. The summer evening-dresses for young girls are mostly in tulle with accordeon-plaited skirts and low-necked corsages in folds of the material, crossed transversely with flat folds, and finished with a sash in surah encircling the waist. No contrast of color is admitted into these very tasteful dresses, the surah sash matching the tulle. Short skirts for evening wear are wholly abandoned, except for very young girls. Long trains, however, are only worn for full ball-dress. The short demi-train is universally adopted for dinner or reception dresses, but short skirts for promenade or traveling wear still hold their own.
There is quite a revulsion from the rage for colored under-garments, and pink and blue and lilac batiste for handkerchiefs and underwear have given place to pure white, and cambric is again in vogue. There is talk of substituting white thread stockings for the colored hosiery that has so long been popular; but, as white stockings increase the apparent size of the foot and ankle, it will be some time before that innovation is adopted.
A favorite combination this season is the union of pekin and plain materials of precisely the same shade in one costume. The pekin is in narrow stripes, either in satin and faille or in watered silk and satin. It comes also in light worsted stuffs. The corsage and the straight folds of the skirt are made of the pekin, and the plaited underskirt or the soft full draperies are of the plain material. Worth has composed dresses entirely of pekin, with immense revers at either side of the skirt, formed by turning back an entire breadth in a pointed shawl-shape. The pekin thus employed is in inch-wide stripes of taffetas and satin, in contrasting colors, and the effect is very striking.
In the way of hats and bonnets, the sudden lowering of high crowns and lofty trimmings has set every lady to remodeling her last season's headgear. Everything in the way of millinery is light and aerial, or else compact and severe-looking. Full-dress bonnets are the daintiest little things imaginable, being in pale-tinted gauze or tulle, or else all in small spring flowers that completely cover the frame. Heather, forget-me-nots, and lilies of the valley are much used for these picturesque little bonnets. Then there are fine straws, trimmed with bttercups or with violets, and others in gold braid or passementerie, or in fine gold gauze. Hats in fine black straw with very wide brims, having a band of insertion in delicate black horse-hair lace let into the brim about its centre, are trimmed with black lace and flowers and black ribbons, or else with a combination of black lace and jet butterflies or dragon-flies. That last mode of trimming is very effective, bit is rather heavy for the hat itself.
The summer cloaks and wraps are very pretty, and by no means expensive. The most attractive are probably those in black lace, made to cover the toilette entirely, and having very wide falling sleeves and a lining of thin silk. Sometimes the skirt is bordered with rows of watered ribbon. The wide sleeves are left unlined. These lace cloaks really take the place of a dress. Very charming ones for watering-place wear are made in white lace, either lined with colored silk, or having the lining in white silk with pale-blue or pink ribbons put underneath the lace so as to define the bands in the pattern. For everyday wear, these long cloaks are made of black surah or of changeable satin merveilleux, and have belts of ribbon or else bands of ribbon encircling the waist, with loops and long ends falling in front. The short graceful mantelets, in black or colored silks or sicilienne, trimmed with ruffles of wide black lace, are still worn and are very popular.
Parasols are still extremely large.
Green is the color most in vogue this season, and it is shown in all varieties of shades, from the darkest bottle-green to the new faint tint called varnish-green, which is as near white as a color can possibly be. A very beautiful shade, being at once light and brilliant, is called the Nile-reed. Lake-blue, another new color, is a shade between sky-blue and electric-blue.
There is talk of reviving the old-fashioned barege, so dear to the hearts of our grandmothers. It would be a material just suited to the present cut of dresses.
Lucy H. Hooper.
Saturday, September 22, 2012
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - March 1867 The World of Fashion
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - March 1867
The World of Fashion Observations on London and Parisian Fashions
On our Plates of Costumes for the present month, we have given a variety of the most elegant costumes suited for the commencement of the Spring, and have included those styles that indicate the principal characteristics of the prevailing Fashion.
Among the most fashionable garments for out-door wear, we will first mention the tight-fitting Peplum Paletot or Casaque, usually made of black silk, and worn with a ceinture or waistbelt. The favorite trimmings are passementerie, jet, silk cord, and black lace.
The looser styles of Paletot are however almost more in favor than the close-fitting, and are from their form most appropriate to the present plain style of dress skirt. The Bretonne style of Paletot (shown on Plate 4) with its rich parti-colored trimming, and its elaborately worked escutcheon ornaments, is in very great favor in Paris at the present time. For Suits, again the loose Paletot is admirably adapted, and it may be trimmed in any way to match the dress. The greatest novelty is however the white Paletot, shown on Plate 1, with its elaborate jet trimming which has a most distingue appearance.
For dresses, the Princesse form, without seam at waist, is being generally adopted. Skirts are always gored so as to sit almost plain all round, and double skirts are becoming very fashionable; the under skirt or petticoat is of course cut rather short, and the upper is looped up in various ways, some of the newest being shown on our Colored Plates.
These Princesse dresses generally have the seams ornamented by some kind of trimming; the rows of jet shown on fig. 3, Plate 4, being very elegant and appropriate, and the purple ruching covering all the seams of the skirt in fig. 1, Plate 1, has a most charming effect, especially as it is combined with the openings left round the bottom of skirt, through which the richly embroidered petticoat is seen.
The open or Watteau style of body, shown on fig. 1, Plate 2, will be this season more in favor than ever. Waists are always round, and are becoming shorter.
One of the greatest novelties in Paris, is the forming skirts into very narrow pleats or quillings. It is however only the very short skirts that can be made up in this way.
The Ball toilettes, shown on our third Plate, are admirable specimens of the richness and elegance that distinguish the newest Fashions. Flowers are used but sparingly, and are generally placed singly and with but few leaves. The single flowers, separating the folds of the bouillons in tulle skirts, have a very novel effect, and the regularity of these forms is quite in harmony with the present style of dress.
In Evening Headdresses, the same ideas prevail. Simple elegance, rather than profusion, prevails in the ornaments, while the art of the coiffeur is taxed to the utmost, in the variety and novelty of form given to the hair itself.
In Bonnets there is an immense variety of form; the Fanchon and the Benoiton being the favorite shapes. The trimmings are now most varied. Flowers, feathers, lace, and plaits of velvet, being all used. Grelots or pendants, either of jet or pearl, are also very fashionable, and indeed almost every bonnet has now either the jet or the pearls, as forming an important part of the ornamentation.
The series of Spring Costumes will be continued in our April and May numbers, and will include all the best and choicest productions of the most renowned Artistes des Modes. Our exclusive sources of information will render this selection of elegant novelties of especial value to our subscribers.
The World of Fashion Observations on London and Parisian Fashions
On our Plates of Costumes for the present month, we have given a variety of the most elegant costumes suited for the commencement of the Spring, and have included those styles that indicate the principal characteristics of the prevailing Fashion.
Among the most fashionable garments for out-door wear, we will first mention the tight-fitting Peplum Paletot or Casaque, usually made of black silk, and worn with a ceinture or waistbelt. The favorite trimmings are passementerie, jet, silk cord, and black lace.
The looser styles of Paletot are however almost more in favor than the close-fitting, and are from their form most appropriate to the present plain style of dress skirt. The Bretonne style of Paletot (shown on Plate 4) with its rich parti-colored trimming, and its elaborately worked escutcheon ornaments, is in very great favor in Paris at the present time. For Suits, again the loose Paletot is admirably adapted, and it may be trimmed in any way to match the dress. The greatest novelty is however the white Paletot, shown on Plate 1, with its elaborate jet trimming which has a most distingue appearance.
For dresses, the Princesse form, without seam at waist, is being generally adopted. Skirts are always gored so as to sit almost plain all round, and double skirts are becoming very fashionable; the under skirt or petticoat is of course cut rather short, and the upper is looped up in various ways, some of the newest being shown on our Colored Plates.
These Princesse dresses generally have the seams ornamented by some kind of trimming; the rows of jet shown on fig. 3, Plate 4, being very elegant and appropriate, and the purple ruching covering all the seams of the skirt in fig. 1, Plate 1, has a most charming effect, especially as it is combined with the openings left round the bottom of skirt, through which the richly embroidered petticoat is seen.
The open or Watteau style of body, shown on fig. 1, Plate 2, will be this season more in favor than ever. Waists are always round, and are becoming shorter.
One of the greatest novelties in Paris, is the forming skirts into very narrow pleats or quillings. It is however only the very short skirts that can be made up in this way.
The Ball toilettes, shown on our third Plate, are admirable specimens of the richness and elegance that distinguish the newest Fashions. Flowers are used but sparingly, and are generally placed singly and with but few leaves. The single flowers, separating the folds of the bouillons in tulle skirts, have a very novel effect, and the regularity of these forms is quite in harmony with the present style of dress.
In Evening Headdresses, the same ideas prevail. Simple elegance, rather than profusion, prevails in the ornaments, while the art of the coiffeur is taxed to the utmost, in the variety and novelty of form given to the hair itself.
In Bonnets there is an immense variety of form; the Fanchon and the Benoiton being the favorite shapes. The trimmings are now most varied. Flowers, feathers, lace, and plaits of velvet, being all used. Grelots or pendants, either of jet or pearl, are also very fashionable, and indeed almost every bonnet has now either the jet or the pearls, as forming an important part of the ornamentation.
The series of Spring Costumes will be continued in our April and May numbers, and will include all the best and choicest productions of the most renowned Artistes des Modes. Our exclusive sources of information will render this selection of elegant novelties of especial value to our subscribers.
Sunday, June 10, 2012
Late Victorian Era Chit Chat-December 1880 Peterson's Magazine
Late Victorian Era Chit Chat-December 1880 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks
Since the days when Titian and Tintoretto painted, we think nothing more gorgeous has been seen than the materials now in use for elaborate toilettes and. The brocaded velvets and satins, the cold embroidered camel's hair, and silks, surpass all powers of description. In velvets large clusters of hazel nuts, cherries, carnations, tulips, roses, etc., may be seen, standing out like carved work. The satins are brocaded in clusters of lilacs, poppies, morning glories, or dozens of other flowers; but usually in the same color, though of different shade from the ground work. We say usually, but the single color is not universal, as some of the most elegant are of different colors, as of small sunflowers in dull yellow, with brown velvet centers, on black, or brown velvet. This cost $20.00 per yard; or trails of exquisite pink and blue morning glories, on a peach colored satin at $7.50 per yard. Or soft Marshal Neil roses, the yellow lying softly on a black, brown, or amethyst ground. A black cashmere, covered with roses, woven in gold threads, at $30.00 per yard. But such stuffs are hazardous in the hands of the uninitiated. They must be most carefully employed, or they become vulgar. They are used principally as trimmings, trains, draperies, etc. When nearly the whole costume is made of them, it must be of the very simplest make. But we are happy to say that, for ordinary wear, and ordinary purses, much cheaper and plainer materials are to be found in the greatest abundance. Quiet silks, cashmeres, and camel's hairs, in all the new colors, are in profusion, either plain, or, in the case of silks, brocaded in some quiet style that anyone can wear. There are also innumerable broched woolen goods, for jackets, bodices, or that trimming of dresses. Plaits are revived for trimmings, the handkerchief costumes, in woolen goods, being quite fashionable. Only tall, slender persons should purchase these. Dark green, as well as brick red, and the many shades of purple, are all popular. Soft, light woolen material, such as albatross cloth, nun's veiling, and fine camel's hair, is much used in combination with silk, and even satin for evening dresses, especially for young ladies. But the general style of making dresses is unchanged, the modifications are numerous, however, to suit all tastes. We cannot too often reiterate, that never was there a time when a woman could dress so much as she pleased, and never before could an old wardrobe be made over into a most fashionable new one. For the street, short dresses, and for the house, long dresses are the rule. As we said, last month, small tournures are beginning to reappear, to give the dress a little fullness below the waist, and this may mean a stiff crinoline, or even a hoop, in time.
The fashion of wearing waists different from the skirts of dresses is still liked, as in this way an old skirt can be utilized. The fichus, jabots of lace, etc., add so much to plain, or limited number of dresses, that the varieties are very great.
Wraps are worn much longer than they were some years ago, also looser, if made as a wrap only; but jackets are generally tight fitting, though even here personal taste may dictate the style. For the wraps, plush, satin, Sicilienne silk and cashmere, as well as that is used. Some of the most expensive are lined throughout with bright colored plush, figured and striped silks, or satins in gay colors. It will be seen that the somber hues, so long the only correct thing, are no longer quite so fashionable; but they are much safer, with a small wardrobe. Many carriage wraps and opera cloaks are made of the expensive materials, such as camel's hair wrought with gold, brocaded velvets, etc., which we have described.
Bonnets and hats are still worn according to the fancy, though some of the newest bonnets are a little larger than those of the summer. The trimmings fall front as a rule, rather than back, and all sorts of materials are used as garniture. The most stylish are simply trimmed, but many are very elaborate. Plush and beaver bonnets and hats are very popular.
Thursday, April 26, 2012
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - November 1883 Peterson's Magazine
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - November 1883 Peterson's Magazine
Our Paris Letter
Rue Des Petits Champs
The bonnets this fall are unusually pretty as well as stylish. Velvet is the favorite, the frames covered with that or some other rich material. The shape is small and a slight modification of the capote, the crown being formed of folds of the material. Plain velvet is the favorite; but brocaded velvets, and those embroidered in jet or pearl beads in small set figures, are also seen. The trimmings are clusters of ostrich-tips matching the bonnet in hue. Strong contrasts are avoided, though red velvet bonnets, trimmed with black lace and jet, are ornamented with black feathers. If a brocaded velvet is used, the strings and plumes match the colors of the design, which is always in set small figures. Bonnets of white dotted net, trimmed with dark-garnet velvet and with clsuters of gold-yellow flowers, are fashionable for evening-wear. In the way of hats, the mode inclines to the large and the exaggerated, though the sizes are less and the styles not so obtrusive as they were a few seasons ago. The newest shape is the capeline, which is a modification of the Gainsborough, the crown being less high and the brim not so wide. It is turned up at the right side, and is profusely trimmed with ostrich-feathers, one very long one sweeping around the brim and falling on the wearer's shoulder, while a cluster of ostrich-tips is set at the other side of the crown. These hats are made of dark velvet: black, dark-blue, and dark-green being the favorite hues. Colored felt hats are also a good deal worn; they are made with high-set crowns and brims of a moderate width. These are trimmed in all sorts of wild, exaggerated ways, with wings, and stiff quill feathers, and birds' heads, all combined. Sometimes even the head of a white kitten is seen on a terra-cotta or gray felt. Bands of velvet and satin, on the same gamut of hues as the felt itself, encircle the crown.
The favorite shade for walking-suits and bonnets this autumn is a lovely blue-gray - very soft and delicate and refined-looking; it has, however, the great demerit of being very perishable. Corded silks, and corded materials of all kinds, such as ottoman silks, uncut velvet, and soft-finished siciliennes, are largely in vogue this season. Stamped velvet will be extensively used for trimming in combination with ottoman silks and with plain velvet. The newest pattern shows large pansies massed together in rich dark shades of purple, or ruby, or garnet, the colors being set off by the yellow floss-silk centres of the flowers. This is an extremely rich and effective material, and combines well with plain stuffs. Black ottoman silks are made up by Worth for street-dresses, and are trimmed with bands of dark-red, relieved with narrow yellow stripes, these bands being also of ottoman silk. The effect is very good.
Another one of Worth's newer combinations is a delicate beige-shade in ottoman silk, trimmed with a very dark-red plain velvet. Neutral tints will be largely in favor for the coming season, both in woolen dress-goods and in silks. They will combine well with the dull-colored plaids that have recently been introduced. Worth is also using thick figured silks in small arabesque designs combined with plain velvet. These brocades are usually shown in olive or brown hues of various shades. For evening-dress, the train and corsage of plain velvet is combined with a skirt-front in velvet-figured silk, blended with satin embroidered with pearls. Worth has just finished a superb toilette, with the corsage and train in shrimp-colored velvet, the latter finished with a gold cord. The front of the skirt is in white silk, figured with large roses in shaded velvet. This has a washerwoman's overskirt, plaited to the waist in large flat folds. Below this overskirt a transverse band of pale-blue satin, worked with pearls, crosses the skirt-front. Narrow bias bands of satin are used for trimming cashmere suits, and must match the material precisely in hue. A black cashmere trimmed profusely with these bands forms a very stylish and dressy walking-costume. Scarf-draperies have to a great extent replaced the overskirt. Either they cross in front (which is a trying style to a stout figure) over the kilt-plaited underskirt, or one scarf, starting at the edge of the short basque at one side, crosses about half-way down the other side of the skirt, and is held in place by a large buckle. A pretty combination for such a dress is to have the skirt of striped silk, with cuffs to match, and the corsage, scarf, and wide flounce showing under the kilt-plaited skirt, all of a plain silk or of cashmere.
Stockings are now shown embroidered on the instep with large dots in colored silks: red upon brown or black, pale-blue on dark-brown, violet on pale-grey, etc. White thread open-worked stockings are embroidered with dark-red or blue floss-silk, the work following the interstices of the open-work. Very small patterns in open-worked silk stockings are popular for evening-wear. Stockings in fine black silk have bands of black-lace insertion crossing the instep and encircling the ankle. Boots of black morocco, foxed with patent-leather and laced in front, are worn in the street. For house-shoes, no novelties thus far have been shown.
Lucy H. Hooper
Our Paris Letter
Rue Des Petits Champs
The bonnets this fall are unusually pretty as well as stylish. Velvet is the favorite, the frames covered with that or some other rich material. The shape is small and a slight modification of the capote, the crown being formed of folds of the material. Plain velvet is the favorite; but brocaded velvets, and those embroidered in jet or pearl beads in small set figures, are also seen. The trimmings are clusters of ostrich-tips matching the bonnet in hue. Strong contrasts are avoided, though red velvet bonnets, trimmed with black lace and jet, are ornamented with black feathers. If a brocaded velvet is used, the strings and plumes match the colors of the design, which is always in set small figures. Bonnets of white dotted net, trimmed with dark-garnet velvet and with clsuters of gold-yellow flowers, are fashionable for evening-wear. In the way of hats, the mode inclines to the large and the exaggerated, though the sizes are less and the styles not so obtrusive as they were a few seasons ago. The newest shape is the capeline, which is a modification of the Gainsborough, the crown being less high and the brim not so wide. It is turned up at the right side, and is profusely trimmed with ostrich-feathers, one very long one sweeping around the brim and falling on the wearer's shoulder, while a cluster of ostrich-tips is set at the other side of the crown. These hats are made of dark velvet: black, dark-blue, and dark-green being the favorite hues. Colored felt hats are also a good deal worn; they are made with high-set crowns and brims of a moderate width. These are trimmed in all sorts of wild, exaggerated ways, with wings, and stiff quill feathers, and birds' heads, all combined. Sometimes even the head of a white kitten is seen on a terra-cotta or gray felt. Bands of velvet and satin, on the same gamut of hues as the felt itself, encircle the crown.
The favorite shade for walking-suits and bonnets this autumn is a lovely blue-gray - very soft and delicate and refined-looking; it has, however, the great demerit of being very perishable. Corded silks, and corded materials of all kinds, such as ottoman silks, uncut velvet, and soft-finished siciliennes, are largely in vogue this season. Stamped velvet will be extensively used for trimming in combination with ottoman silks and with plain velvet. The newest pattern shows large pansies massed together in rich dark shades of purple, or ruby, or garnet, the colors being set off by the yellow floss-silk centres of the flowers. This is an extremely rich and effective material, and combines well with plain stuffs. Black ottoman silks are made up by Worth for street-dresses, and are trimmed with bands of dark-red, relieved with narrow yellow stripes, these bands being also of ottoman silk. The effect is very good.
Another one of Worth's newer combinations is a delicate beige-shade in ottoman silk, trimmed with a very dark-red plain velvet. Neutral tints will be largely in favor for the coming season, both in woolen dress-goods and in silks. They will combine well with the dull-colored plaids that have recently been introduced. Worth is also using thick figured silks in small arabesque designs combined with plain velvet. These brocades are usually shown in olive or brown hues of various shades. For evening-dress, the train and corsage of plain velvet is combined with a skirt-front in velvet-figured silk, blended with satin embroidered with pearls. Worth has just finished a superb toilette, with the corsage and train in shrimp-colored velvet, the latter finished with a gold cord. The front of the skirt is in white silk, figured with large roses in shaded velvet. This has a washerwoman's overskirt, plaited to the waist in large flat folds. Below this overskirt a transverse band of pale-blue satin, worked with pearls, crosses the skirt-front. Narrow bias bands of satin are used for trimming cashmere suits, and must match the material precisely in hue. A black cashmere trimmed profusely with these bands forms a very stylish and dressy walking-costume. Scarf-draperies have to a great extent replaced the overskirt. Either they cross in front (which is a trying style to a stout figure) over the kilt-plaited underskirt, or one scarf, starting at the edge of the short basque at one side, crosses about half-way down the other side of the skirt, and is held in place by a large buckle. A pretty combination for such a dress is to have the skirt of striped silk, with cuffs to match, and the corsage, scarf, and wide flounce showing under the kilt-plaited skirt, all of a plain silk or of cashmere.
Stockings are now shown embroidered on the instep with large dots in colored silks: red upon brown or black, pale-blue on dark-brown, violet on pale-grey, etc. White thread open-worked stockings are embroidered with dark-red or blue floss-silk, the work following the interstices of the open-work. Very small patterns in open-worked silk stockings are popular for evening-wear. Stockings in fine black silk have bands of black-lace insertion crossing the instep and encircling the ankle. Boots of black morocco, foxed with patent-leather and laced in front, are worn in the street. For house-shoes, no novelties thus far have been shown.
Lucy H. Hooper
Thursday, April 12, 2012
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - November 1883 Peterson's Magazine
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - November 1883 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks
It is quite as impossible to describe the numerous materials for dresses as it is to speak of all the variety of styles of making them up. Woolen goods of all the dark colors will be very much worn: sometimes combined with silk, satin, velvet, or velveteen of the same color, but of a different shade, and often made and entirely trimmed with itself. Velvet ribbons are again very popular as a trimming, three of four rows of the ribbon being put on plain around a draped overskirt, and trimming cuffs, etc. Embroidering with braid, and more simple braiding, is also very popular. The latter style is extremely pretty for a well-fitting bodice or jacket. Tailor-made dresses are very much liked for out-of-door wear; they are serviceable and comfortable, but are rather heavy for the house, and do not look as suitable as a lighter style of costume.
Kilt-plaits in front and at the sides, with a slight drapery at the back, are very much worn in these tailor-made dresses; others have a plain skirt tucked, with a pointed overskirt; others again have both skirts trimmed with broad military braid.
Silks, and other materials lighter than cloth, are less severe in style, and are more draped and trimmed. One of the newest styles for flounces is to gather them slightly, and to cut the edges in points or scallops. Then there are the rows of ribbon, or of the velvet ribbon of which we have before spoken; or, for evening-dresses, rows of gold or silver braid.
Sleeves are always put in quite high on the shoulder, and generally with some fullness - in some cases, with a good deal of fullness.
Vests and plastrons, made of velvet, silk, satin, etc., are much worn; and, for evening-dresses, the plastrons are often of tulle or crepe-lisse.
Tournures of crinoline, or steels at the back, are universally worn - as yet of moderate dimensions in this country, but abroad they have already attained rather formidable proportions. But we are glad to say that the old-fashioned hoop has not yet put in an appearance. Still, to be fashionably dresses, the bouffant effect at the back is indispensable. The tailor-made jackets are cut with a spring sufficiently great to fit easily over this fullness. But in the manner of making dresses, or of the materials of which they are made, the greatest latitude is given. Anyone can follow her own especial fancy, remembering only the few important items we have stated, viz: the high shoulder and rather full sleeve, greater fullness at the back, and the close clinging front.
Wrappings are worn of every style: the jaunty jacket rather shorter, as a rule, than those of a year or two ago; the long close-fitting paletot, or sacque, reaching nearly to the feet, with its cuff and shoulder-cape of velvet, Astrakan-cloth, or fur; the mantle, or visite, warmly lined, cut so as to fall over the arms like a sleeve (though no sleeve is inserted), shorter at the back than in front, and loose enough to sit easily over the tournure; and the long loose cloak, made of silk, velvet, or cloth, and also with dolman-shaped sleeves. All these wraps are trimmed - as suits the fancy or purse of the wearer - with fur, lace, velvet, brocade, or rich passementerie. Small fur capes are very fashionable over tight-fitting wraps.
Bonnets are more generally of the smaller shapes, and are usually considered more becoming, though larger ones are worn, if fancied. Hats are usually of a medium size, except the toques or turbans, which are so becoming to youthful faces.
The hair, it is prophesied, will be worn higher on the head than has been the fashion hitherto. This is stylish, but not usually so becoming as when worn lower on the neck; this last style, however, is not so well adapted to people with short necks.
General Remarks
It is quite as impossible to describe the numerous materials for dresses as it is to speak of all the variety of styles of making them up. Woolen goods of all the dark colors will be very much worn: sometimes combined with silk, satin, velvet, or velveteen of the same color, but of a different shade, and often made and entirely trimmed with itself. Velvet ribbons are again very popular as a trimming, three of four rows of the ribbon being put on plain around a draped overskirt, and trimming cuffs, etc. Embroidering with braid, and more simple braiding, is also very popular. The latter style is extremely pretty for a well-fitting bodice or jacket. Tailor-made dresses are very much liked for out-of-door wear; they are serviceable and comfortable, but are rather heavy for the house, and do not look as suitable as a lighter style of costume.
Kilt-plaits in front and at the sides, with a slight drapery at the back, are very much worn in these tailor-made dresses; others have a plain skirt tucked, with a pointed overskirt; others again have both skirts trimmed with broad military braid.
Silks, and other materials lighter than cloth, are less severe in style, and are more draped and trimmed. One of the newest styles for flounces is to gather them slightly, and to cut the edges in points or scallops. Then there are the rows of ribbon, or of the velvet ribbon of which we have before spoken; or, for evening-dresses, rows of gold or silver braid.
Sleeves are always put in quite high on the shoulder, and generally with some fullness - in some cases, with a good deal of fullness.
Vests and plastrons, made of velvet, silk, satin, etc., are much worn; and, for evening-dresses, the plastrons are often of tulle or crepe-lisse.
Tournures of crinoline, or steels at the back, are universally worn - as yet of moderate dimensions in this country, but abroad they have already attained rather formidable proportions. But we are glad to say that the old-fashioned hoop has not yet put in an appearance. Still, to be fashionably dresses, the bouffant effect at the back is indispensable. The tailor-made jackets are cut with a spring sufficiently great to fit easily over this fullness. But in the manner of making dresses, or of the materials of which they are made, the greatest latitude is given. Anyone can follow her own especial fancy, remembering only the few important items we have stated, viz: the high shoulder and rather full sleeve, greater fullness at the back, and the close clinging front.
Wrappings are worn of every style: the jaunty jacket rather shorter, as a rule, than those of a year or two ago; the long close-fitting paletot, or sacque, reaching nearly to the feet, with its cuff and shoulder-cape of velvet, Astrakan-cloth, or fur; the mantle, or visite, warmly lined, cut so as to fall over the arms like a sleeve (though no sleeve is inserted), shorter at the back than in front, and loose enough to sit easily over the tournure; and the long loose cloak, made of silk, velvet, or cloth, and also with dolman-shaped sleeves. All these wraps are trimmed - as suits the fancy or purse of the wearer - with fur, lace, velvet, brocade, or rich passementerie. Small fur capes are very fashionable over tight-fitting wraps.
Bonnets are more generally of the smaller shapes, and are usually considered more becoming, though larger ones are worn, if fancied. Hats are usually of a medium size, except the toques or turbans, which are so becoming to youthful faces.
The hair, it is prophesied, will be worn higher on the head than has been the fashion hitherto. This is stylish, but not usually so becoming as when worn lower on the neck; this last style, however, is not so well adapted to people with short necks.
Wednesday, March 14, 2012
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - October 1870 Peterson's Magazine
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - October 1870 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks -
Cashmere and very fine merino will be more worn this season than usual. The petticoats are usually of silk, either black or of the color of the dress, and the upper-skirt and jacket, or tunic, are of cashmere. One of the very prettest of these autumn costumes that we have seen is of a rich brown; the petticoat is of silk, and has six narrow, pinked flounces on the skirt, put on two together; the upper-skirt is about three-quarters of a yard deep in front, and slopes off to about a yard in depth behind; this skirt is trimmed all around with a brown silk fringe, and is drawn back and looped up on each side near the back. The waist is high, with coat-sleeves, and is cut with small, square basques back and front. Over this is worn, out-of-doors, if needed, the loose casaque, which has very wide and large flowing sleeves, and is slashed up at the sides and the back; this casaque is trimmed with a brown fringe and a full quilling of the brown silk pinked. This costume has just been imported, and comes from one of the most celebrated French houses; nothing can be simpler and yet more stylish. Black maroon, violet, dark-gray, or dark-blue, would look equally well, whether worn over a petticoat of their own color, or over black.
Short Dresses are still as popular as ever; but we are sorry to say that they are now made to touch the ground, and, as they are trimmed beyond the knee, they are cut narrower than in the spring. The full trimming looks rich and elegant, but the length of the skirt makes it less tidy than when worn an inch or so shorted. Ladies, however, willingly rid themselves of the train, and it is only exceptionally that it is seen now, even for great ceremonies in the day-time. In the evening, they are the indispensable adjunct of dressy toilets, although round dresses are already made sometimes. All that depends upon taste. The grands dame wears the train with ease, and will always prefer it to the short dress, but it requires much practice, and a natural grace which cannot be taught, to look well with the court train.
We must say, however, that brides' dresses are always made train-shaped, the bride not going out on foot, may let her dress trail without any uneasiness on that account. So also, the bridemaids, if they choose, wear wither the long or short dress.
The only thing which cannot be tolerated, is the train-shaped dress in the street, whether it trail in the dust, or whether it be gathered up in a heap, it will always appear ungainly. It looks lady-like only when it can be spread out at ease upon a carpet without any dread of stain or dust.
Luxury could not well increase in female toilets; for some years past it has been making too rapid progress, but it seems that it is spreading more and more, and each day becomes more absorbing.
Materials and Trimmings, formerly confined to evening toilets, now appear in full daylight. Even the simplest costumes, that is, those which, by their material, pretend to be no more than demi-toilet, have most elaborate patterns and trimmings. Velvet ribbon is profusely used for trimmings on all materials, and one of the newest styles of making deep flounces, is to place perpendicular bands of velvet ribbon of any width that suits the taste (it should not be less than one inch in width, however,) between the plaitings of the flounces. A very little gold is sometimes used on black trimmings, but it is not in good style to use it too lavishly. Fringes are very much used, and nothing can be prettier than the little narrow moss-fringe, which is so soft, and can either be used alone, or as the heading of a longer fringe. Among the new shades are the olives, chestnuts, maroons, prunes, various wine-colors, blues, grays, etc., too numerous to mention.
Bonnets are really beginning to be bonnets, with fronts, crowns, and capes; and though, perhaps, they may not be as becoming as the tufts of lace, flowers and feathers, so long worn and known by that name, yet they have the female mind of novelty, and in some instances are very coquettish-looking. Of one thing the milliners will be glad, they cannot be easily made by amateur fingers.
Mantles, Casaques, and Paletots, are made either half loose or tight, as suits the figure of the wearer.
General Remarks -
Cashmere and very fine merino will be more worn this season than usual. The petticoats are usually of silk, either black or of the color of the dress, and the upper-skirt and jacket, or tunic, are of cashmere. One of the very prettest of these autumn costumes that we have seen is of a rich brown; the petticoat is of silk, and has six narrow, pinked flounces on the skirt, put on two together; the upper-skirt is about three-quarters of a yard deep in front, and slopes off to about a yard in depth behind; this skirt is trimmed all around with a brown silk fringe, and is drawn back and looped up on each side near the back. The waist is high, with coat-sleeves, and is cut with small, square basques back and front. Over this is worn, out-of-doors, if needed, the loose casaque, which has very wide and large flowing sleeves, and is slashed up at the sides and the back; this casaque is trimmed with a brown fringe and a full quilling of the brown silk pinked. This costume has just been imported, and comes from one of the most celebrated French houses; nothing can be simpler and yet more stylish. Black maroon, violet, dark-gray, or dark-blue, would look equally well, whether worn over a petticoat of their own color, or over black.
Short Dresses are still as popular as ever; but we are sorry to say that they are now made to touch the ground, and, as they are trimmed beyond the knee, they are cut narrower than in the spring. The full trimming looks rich and elegant, but the length of the skirt makes it less tidy than when worn an inch or so shorted. Ladies, however, willingly rid themselves of the train, and it is only exceptionally that it is seen now, even for great ceremonies in the day-time. In the evening, they are the indispensable adjunct of dressy toilets, although round dresses are already made sometimes. All that depends upon taste. The grands dame wears the train with ease, and will always prefer it to the short dress, but it requires much practice, and a natural grace which cannot be taught, to look well with the court train.
We must say, however, that brides' dresses are always made train-shaped, the bride not going out on foot, may let her dress trail without any uneasiness on that account. So also, the bridemaids, if they choose, wear wither the long or short dress.
The only thing which cannot be tolerated, is the train-shaped dress in the street, whether it trail in the dust, or whether it be gathered up in a heap, it will always appear ungainly. It looks lady-like only when it can be spread out at ease upon a carpet without any dread of stain or dust.
Luxury could not well increase in female toilets; for some years past it has been making too rapid progress, but it seems that it is spreading more and more, and each day becomes more absorbing.
Materials and Trimmings, formerly confined to evening toilets, now appear in full daylight. Even the simplest costumes, that is, those which, by their material, pretend to be no more than demi-toilet, have most elaborate patterns and trimmings. Velvet ribbon is profusely used for trimmings on all materials, and one of the newest styles of making deep flounces, is to place perpendicular bands of velvet ribbon of any width that suits the taste (it should not be less than one inch in width, however,) between the plaitings of the flounces. A very little gold is sometimes used on black trimmings, but it is not in good style to use it too lavishly. Fringes are very much used, and nothing can be prettier than the little narrow moss-fringe, which is so soft, and can either be used alone, or as the heading of a longer fringe. Among the new shades are the olives, chestnuts, maroons, prunes, various wine-colors, blues, grays, etc., too numerous to mention.
Bonnets are really beginning to be bonnets, with fronts, crowns, and capes; and though, perhaps, they may not be as becoming as the tufts of lace, flowers and feathers, so long worn and known by that name, yet they have the female mind of novelty, and in some instances are very coquettish-looking. Of one thing the milliners will be glad, they cannot be easily made by amateur fingers.
Mantles, Casaques, and Paletots, are made either half loose or tight, as suits the figure of the wearer.
Sunday, January 22, 2012
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - December 1875 Peterson's Magazine
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - December 1875 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks
We also give some of the newest styles of winter bonnets and hats; the very latest fashion of dressing the hair, and some patterns for infant dresses, cloaks, etc. The cloak is of white cashmere, button-holed on the edge, and braided with white silk braid. One of the caps is made of fine shirred muslin, lined with pink silk, edged with lace, and trimmed with pink ribbon. For very cold weather, a wadded cap should be worn under the muslin one. The other cap is made of fine, white cashmere; has a cape which is trimmed with white silk fringe and white braid. The front of the cap is finished with a quantity of small loops, made of narrow, white satin ribbon, put on very closely; a quillingof white lace around the face; bow of white ribbon on the left side. The bibs are made of white pique, edged with a white worked ruffle. One of the bibs is embroidered in spots.
We cannot add much to the very full descriptions of the newest styles of goods, etc., given in our November number. The colors are more definite, but not brighter than those worn a year ago; and the different varieties of woolen materials bewilder one. For street wear, the costume is generally composed of two, or even three, materials, but almost always of one color - that is the skirt and over-dress; while the jacket is often of a pretty contrasting color. For more elegant costumes, figured velvet will be largely used, in combination with heavy silk, but in innumerable and indescribable ways. In fact, the stylishness of dress now depends a great deal on the individual taste of the wearer, for the arrangement of color and material depends entirely on the fancy.
The Cuirass waist is very popular: and all waists, basques, etc., are made larger than formerly. The apron over-skirt, made quite long, retains its popularity. Under-skirts still have all the fullness at the back, and are tied back closer to the figure than ever, if possible, so that walking, as well as sitting, is a most trying business.
For Evening Dresses, two or three colors, as well as two or three materials, are used: for instance, gray and pink, blue and maize, or cream color, or salmon, light-green and pink, or light-green and straw, mauve and primrose, etc.
For evening wear the skirts of dresses are now frequently plaited entirely from waist downward, like the trains worn by abbesses; they open on one side over a simulated under-skirt, which is a complete contrast to the upper one. For example, a jade-colored silk dress (a whitish green, or sea-foam shade) will open over a breadth of muslin and white faille - a faille plaiting and a muslin plaiting arranged alternately - and the opening, which is at one side only, will be barred across with black velvet. The jade faille bodice will be a cuirass with a plaistron, half of white faille and half of muslin, inserted in the front, and edged with Valenciannes lace; black velvet bars likewise cross the bodice. The sleeves may be either black velvet trimmed with a white muslin plaiting and a bow of jade ribbon, or entirely of white muslin and Valenciennes lace, with a black velvet bow. The style of dress is quite novel, and the effect is most stylish; it is repeated in all colors, and in many different materials. When white muslin is used for this dress, the order is reversed. The Abbess train is muslin, and the simulated under-skirt, over which it opens, is flame-colored silk, the breadth being plaited its entire length. The muslin bodice is lined with flame-colored silk, and at the end of the sleeves there is a plaiting of flame silk.
For small evening parties, another charming style of dress is popular; the black is entirely covered with white muslin plaitings, alternating with pinked out silk flounces, either pale-blue, pink, or white. The bodice is of silk to match the flounces, and has large, square basques, with pockets; it is cut square in front, and edged with Valenciennes lace, but otherwise there is no trimming. Low dresses are likewise made in the same style.
White petticoats are made with a belt in front and a drawing-string at the back, and no placket hole. The short under-skirt, has a hem and six tucks, and the upper-skirt is usually trimmed with scanty, embroidered frills. The lowest frill should not be sewn at the edge of the skirt, but far enough above the edge to prevent the worked scallop touching the ground.
Trained skirts of white lawn, to be worn under full-dress trains, are now sufficiently handsome to serve as outer skirts of house dresses for morning or afternoon wear. These have Spanish flounces elaborately trimmed with insertion, and plaitings edged with Valenciennes lace. The novelty is to trim such skirts with open-worked insertion and edging in wheel and compass patterns.
Pockets Outside - As it is no longer possible to get the hands into the pocket inserted in the tied-back skirts, large pockets of all shapes and styles are worn, usually on one side only, sometimes on both sides. We give an illustration of one in the "Every-day" department.
For All Kinds of Wrappings, as we said last month, braids wrought with gold, silver, or steel, are much used, as well as for dresses. Feather trimming, lace, and fur, are used also; the two former principally on rich velvet wraps. The tendency is to have the wrap shorter at the back than in front, which is ungraceful.
Bonnets are, perhaps, a trifle smaller in the crown than those of last year, and set closer about the ears; but the wide aureole brim is still retained, covered with velvet, usually with one large rose and bud near the front. But some of the prettiest bonnets which we have seen have come from one of the best French houses, and are of gipsy shape in front, that is coming slightly more forward over the face than the aureole brim, and not so large; for most faces we think this the most becoming. Felt is now used quite as much as velvet, is less expensive, and goes quite as well with a woolen costume. The colors are beautiful, and the felt of a fine quality. These bonnets are of all the new shapes. The strings, which are attached to the bonnets, are not always tied over the ears, but are crossed at the back, and tied under the chin. All black lace strings are tied in this way.
General Remarks
We also give some of the newest styles of winter bonnets and hats; the very latest fashion of dressing the hair, and some patterns for infant dresses, cloaks, etc. The cloak is of white cashmere, button-holed on the edge, and braided with white silk braid. One of the caps is made of fine shirred muslin, lined with pink silk, edged with lace, and trimmed with pink ribbon. For very cold weather, a wadded cap should be worn under the muslin one. The other cap is made of fine, white cashmere; has a cape which is trimmed with white silk fringe and white braid. The front of the cap is finished with a quantity of small loops, made of narrow, white satin ribbon, put on very closely; a quillingof white lace around the face; bow of white ribbon on the left side. The bibs are made of white pique, edged with a white worked ruffle. One of the bibs is embroidered in spots.
We cannot add much to the very full descriptions of the newest styles of goods, etc., given in our November number. The colors are more definite, but not brighter than those worn a year ago; and the different varieties of woolen materials bewilder one. For street wear, the costume is generally composed of two, or even three, materials, but almost always of one color - that is the skirt and over-dress; while the jacket is often of a pretty contrasting color. For more elegant costumes, figured velvet will be largely used, in combination with heavy silk, but in innumerable and indescribable ways. In fact, the stylishness of dress now depends a great deal on the individual taste of the wearer, for the arrangement of color and material depends entirely on the fancy.
The Cuirass waist is very popular: and all waists, basques, etc., are made larger than formerly. The apron over-skirt, made quite long, retains its popularity. Under-skirts still have all the fullness at the back, and are tied back closer to the figure than ever, if possible, so that walking, as well as sitting, is a most trying business.
For Evening Dresses, two or three colors, as well as two or three materials, are used: for instance, gray and pink, blue and maize, or cream color, or salmon, light-green and pink, or light-green and straw, mauve and primrose, etc.
For evening wear the skirts of dresses are now frequently plaited entirely from waist downward, like the trains worn by abbesses; they open on one side over a simulated under-skirt, which is a complete contrast to the upper one. For example, a jade-colored silk dress (a whitish green, or sea-foam shade) will open over a breadth of muslin and white faille - a faille plaiting and a muslin plaiting arranged alternately - and the opening, which is at one side only, will be barred across with black velvet. The jade faille bodice will be a cuirass with a plaistron, half of white faille and half of muslin, inserted in the front, and edged with Valenciannes lace; black velvet bars likewise cross the bodice. The sleeves may be either black velvet trimmed with a white muslin plaiting and a bow of jade ribbon, or entirely of white muslin and Valenciennes lace, with a black velvet bow. The style of dress is quite novel, and the effect is most stylish; it is repeated in all colors, and in many different materials. When white muslin is used for this dress, the order is reversed. The Abbess train is muslin, and the simulated under-skirt, over which it opens, is flame-colored silk, the breadth being plaited its entire length. The muslin bodice is lined with flame-colored silk, and at the end of the sleeves there is a plaiting of flame silk.
For small evening parties, another charming style of dress is popular; the black is entirely covered with white muslin plaitings, alternating with pinked out silk flounces, either pale-blue, pink, or white. The bodice is of silk to match the flounces, and has large, square basques, with pockets; it is cut square in front, and edged with Valenciennes lace, but otherwise there is no trimming. Low dresses are likewise made in the same style.
White petticoats are made with a belt in front and a drawing-string at the back, and no placket hole. The short under-skirt, has a hem and six tucks, and the upper-skirt is usually trimmed with scanty, embroidered frills. The lowest frill should not be sewn at the edge of the skirt, but far enough above the edge to prevent the worked scallop touching the ground.
Trained skirts of white lawn, to be worn under full-dress trains, are now sufficiently handsome to serve as outer skirts of house dresses for morning or afternoon wear. These have Spanish flounces elaborately trimmed with insertion, and plaitings edged with Valenciennes lace. The novelty is to trim such skirts with open-worked insertion and edging in wheel and compass patterns.
Pockets Outside - As it is no longer possible to get the hands into the pocket inserted in the tied-back skirts, large pockets of all shapes and styles are worn, usually on one side only, sometimes on both sides. We give an illustration of one in the "Every-day" department.
For All Kinds of Wrappings, as we said last month, braids wrought with gold, silver, or steel, are much used, as well as for dresses. Feather trimming, lace, and fur, are used also; the two former principally on rich velvet wraps. The tendency is to have the wrap shorter at the back than in front, which is ungraceful.
Bonnets are, perhaps, a trifle smaller in the crown than those of last year, and set closer about the ears; but the wide aureole brim is still retained, covered with velvet, usually with one large rose and bud near the front. But some of the prettiest bonnets which we have seen have come from one of the best French houses, and are of gipsy shape in front, that is coming slightly more forward over the face than the aureole brim, and not so large; for most faces we think this the most becoming. Felt is now used quite as much as velvet, is less expensive, and goes quite as well with a woolen costume. The colors are beautiful, and the felt of a fine quality. These bonnets are of all the new shapes. The strings, which are attached to the bonnets, are not always tied over the ears, but are crossed at the back, and tied under the chin. All black lace strings are tied in this way.
Sunday, December 25, 2011
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - August 1889 Peterson's Magazine
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - August 1889 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks
At this season of the year, there is very little to chronicle that is new in the fashions. By June, all the newest modes are out, though there are some minor variations of the styles.
Skirts are made to have a plain straight effect, even if somewhat draped, as nearly all thin materials must be.
Bodices, however, are made in quite fantastic and often very ugly styles. Sometimes, one side of the bodice will be made of one material, fitting closely to the figure, the other side will be of a lighter, as soft silk or woolen goods, and gathered over the bust from the shoulder to the waist. This gathering or drapery is done according to the taste of the wearer. No style of bodice is absolutely fashionable - all styles are adopted, except the very plain severe ones so long popular, and these are sometimes seen in tailor-made traveling-dresses.
Evening-bodices have short puffed sleeves or draperies like half-handkerchiefs, which take the place of sleeves, or are full and puffed.
The Medici collar, which is a high ruff standing about the back of the neck, is worn with the Empire dress, and is becoming to tall slim figures.
Black net dresses have taken the place of black figured lace, to some degree.
Sashes are tied at the sides or at the back, as fancy may dictate, and are worn either wide or narrow.
Wraps of various shapes are seen, though usually they are short, and can be easily put on or off, as is necessary. The three capes, made of cloth, with long mantilla ends, are the newest.
Bonnets are small. Those trimmed with an Alsatian bow are the most generally becoming: this is a wide box which lies flat across the top of the bonnet.
Sailor-hats have only a band of ribbon around them; they are not generally becoming except to youthful faces.
Hats of black net, black straw, Leghorn, etc., are generally large and trimmed with a profusion of flowers; they are frequently dented in the most fantastic shapes, are often too large to be comfortable in a breeze, and are not becoming. Those made of transparent net on wire frames look the best, though not so useful as the straw ones.
General Remarks
At this season of the year, there is very little to chronicle that is new in the fashions. By June, all the newest modes are out, though there are some minor variations of the styles.
Skirts are made to have a plain straight effect, even if somewhat draped, as nearly all thin materials must be.
Bodices, however, are made in quite fantastic and often very ugly styles. Sometimes, one side of the bodice will be made of one material, fitting closely to the figure, the other side will be of a lighter, as soft silk or woolen goods, and gathered over the bust from the shoulder to the waist. This gathering or drapery is done according to the taste of the wearer. No style of bodice is absolutely fashionable - all styles are adopted, except the very plain severe ones so long popular, and these are sometimes seen in tailor-made traveling-dresses.
Evening-bodices have short puffed sleeves or draperies like half-handkerchiefs, which take the place of sleeves, or are full and puffed.
The Medici collar, which is a high ruff standing about the back of the neck, is worn with the Empire dress, and is becoming to tall slim figures.
Black net dresses have taken the place of black figured lace, to some degree.
Sashes are tied at the sides or at the back, as fancy may dictate, and are worn either wide or narrow.
Wraps of various shapes are seen, though usually they are short, and can be easily put on or off, as is necessary. The three capes, made of cloth, with long mantilla ends, are the newest.
Bonnets are small. Those trimmed with an Alsatian bow are the most generally becoming: this is a wide box which lies flat across the top of the bonnet.
Sailor-hats have only a band of ribbon around them; they are not generally becoming except to youthful faces.
Hats of black net, black straw, Leghorn, etc., are generally large and trimmed with a profusion of flowers; they are frequently dented in the most fantastic shapes, are often too large to be comfortable in a breeze, and are not becoming. Those made of transparent net on wire frames look the best, though not so useful as the straw ones.
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - June 1880 Peterson's Magazine
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - June 1880 Peterson's Magazine
It will be seen from our colored plate that most of the summer dresses are made short; in fact, some of the richest and most expensive imported ones are quite short; this is a most sensible fashion, especially for those who go to watering places, as trailing long skirts over soiled floors and piazzas is most uncomfortable.
The satteens, and other cotton materials that are called by more names than we can take space to record, are extremely beautiful this season, some of the handsomest being sold for sixty-five or seventy cents a yard, yet being no prettier in pattern than the much less expensive goods; but the coloring is wonderful, ebing of the richest Oriental style, reds, blues and yellows all harmoniously combined; it is this rich color that makes the expense. The satteens look like satin when first made up; but, of course, will rumple and loose their gloss in time. White will be much worn during the summer, especially thin, dotted and figured Swiss goods. For dressy occasions, embroideries and laces, with a good deal of gold thread in them, are plentifully used; but this should be applied carefully, in order to prevent a "stagy" appearance. This embroidery, when of real gold thread, is very expensive, and wears well; a common material tarnishes very soon, and soon becomes very common looking. Some of the new ribbons have the gold thread interwoven with bright-colored ones, and cost two dollars a yard, being not over three inches wide.
There is nothing new to say of the manner of making dresses, and our fashion plates give the very prettiest styles out; it will be noticed that all the dresses are close-clinging in front.
Mantles and all wraps are as various as the fancies of the wearer, only the general make is shorter, as is natural, than that of the winter; the loose-sleeved Aolena and visite will probably be preferred to a tighter-fitting wrap. as it is cooler and more easily put on.
Bonnets are worn either small or rather large, as may suit the fancy; many flowers as well as bright brocaded ribbons are employed as trimmings, and the flowers are nearly all large. Violets, pansies, large poppies and roses are very popular, and these are often mingled with buttercups, jinquils and other yellow flowers. The mixed straws are sought by those who want a serviceable bonnet; but they are not thought as elegant as a plain white or yellow straw, or a Tuscan one.
Hats are large, but not so enormous as the Gainsborough ones worn two or three years ago, and many young ladies prefer the turban shape.
The hair is worn very low on the neck by many, but some of the fashionable hair-dressers arrange it in a style that shows the back of the neck, and places the front hair higher, in plaits or a few puffs. The low style of hair-dressing suits admirably women with regular features, fine eyes, etc., but it is most unbecoming to round faces. This, however, we have often said before.
It will be seen from our colored plate that most of the summer dresses are made short; in fact, some of the richest and most expensive imported ones are quite short; this is a most sensible fashion, especially for those who go to watering places, as trailing long skirts over soiled floors and piazzas is most uncomfortable.
The satteens, and other cotton materials that are called by more names than we can take space to record, are extremely beautiful this season, some of the handsomest being sold for sixty-five or seventy cents a yard, yet being no prettier in pattern than the much less expensive goods; but the coloring is wonderful, ebing of the richest Oriental style, reds, blues and yellows all harmoniously combined; it is this rich color that makes the expense. The satteens look like satin when first made up; but, of course, will rumple and loose their gloss in time. White will be much worn during the summer, especially thin, dotted and figured Swiss goods. For dressy occasions, embroideries and laces, with a good deal of gold thread in them, are plentifully used; but this should be applied carefully, in order to prevent a "stagy" appearance. This embroidery, when of real gold thread, is very expensive, and wears well; a common material tarnishes very soon, and soon becomes very common looking. Some of the new ribbons have the gold thread interwoven with bright-colored ones, and cost two dollars a yard, being not over three inches wide.
There is nothing new to say of the manner of making dresses, and our fashion plates give the very prettiest styles out; it will be noticed that all the dresses are close-clinging in front.
Mantles and all wraps are as various as the fancies of the wearer, only the general make is shorter, as is natural, than that of the winter; the loose-sleeved Aolena and visite will probably be preferred to a tighter-fitting wrap. as it is cooler and more easily put on.
Bonnets are worn either small or rather large, as may suit the fancy; many flowers as well as bright brocaded ribbons are employed as trimmings, and the flowers are nearly all large. Violets, pansies, large poppies and roses are very popular, and these are often mingled with buttercups, jinquils and other yellow flowers. The mixed straws are sought by those who want a serviceable bonnet; but they are not thought as elegant as a plain white or yellow straw, or a Tuscan one.
Hats are large, but not so enormous as the Gainsborough ones worn two or three years ago, and many young ladies prefer the turban shape.
The hair is worn very low on the neck by many, but some of the fashionable hair-dressers arrange it in a style that shows the back of the neck, and places the front hair higher, in plaits or a few puffs. The low style of hair-dressing suits admirably women with regular features, fine eyes, etc., but it is most unbecoming to round faces. This, however, we have often said before.
Wednesday, November 9, 2011
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - February 1876 Domestic Monthly
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - February 1876 Domestic Monthly
Review of Fashions
An irrepressible desire for novelty is never more conspicuous than during the closing weeks of a fashion period, when inquirers are again and again assured that there is nothing new within the reach of any one. The demand refuses to be quieted with any acknowledged shortness of supplies, and the close of the season thus becomes notable for the remarkable amount of experimenting, which distinguishes it. Extremes are as common as at the opening of a new period, although these consist either of novel dispositions of garnitures, or the conspicuous effects which are always produced by intensifying fashions already in vogue. The revival of the polonaise, alluded to in a previous number, has now become absolute, securing as great a degree of popularity as was given to this excellent style, upon its first introduction. Lingering weeks of winter exhibit polonaises of black velvet, marked by an elegant simplicity as to garniture, the ordinary model being so extravagantly lengthened in many cases that the one garment becomes a sweeping robe, which is worn without the skirt portion of the toilette. With looping, this Princesse polonaise forms an admirably drpaed garment, which is worn over a skirt corresponding in its general features. Polonaises of damask silk and woolen suitings, show the peculiarities of a pelisse, in respect to loopings or drapery effects, while a popular fancy for young ladies is the simulation of a basque for the front, and a plain, slightly-draped back, or contrariwise, a gracefully wrinkled apron-front, with a looped back, completed with shirrs, frills, and elaborate sash-ends. Several novelties, introduced for young ladies' evening dresses, are made from the same basque designs which have served all through the season. One, variously called the armor basque, corset-waist, and long cuirasse basque, is the familiar model, lengthened to what at first appears to be an extreme depth at the front, the back being much shorter. No over-skirt is worn with such a basque, the desired effect of skirt drapery being provided by certain features of trimming. Low-necked corset-basques of this variety, are made with extra side bodies at the back, thus showing five seams, while the fronts are formed with double darts, the skirt portion of the garment being extended according to individual taste. While such extremes mark basque models for showy toilettes, the greatest possible freedom is permitted for all other varieties. The depth of a basque-skirt is determined by its adaptability of shape to the figure which it is intended to cover, and the same rule will apply to the collarette, revers, upright collar, or handsomely outlined Pompadour form, which may be seen between the shoulders, both at the back and front.
The only variation in skirts to be set down for the current month is the abandonment of very long trains for evening costumes, and the gathering of moderately long back-breadths into a more positive, fan-like shape. The effect of this comely little bit of drapery is compact in the extreme, the finely-pleated extension being held in the nicest precision by means of elastic ribbons placed at about two-thirds of the distance down upon the breadths. No fresh model is required for the correct representation of such a skirt, the effect being caused by changing the box-pleats of the back-breadths into fine side-pleats, at a proper point, and giving the desired flare and fan-like appearance by lining the extension with crinoline, and securing the width into the required compass by means of elastics. Walking-skirts continue to clear the foot in front, and for a short distance at the sides they are equally short. At the back they touch the ground, and show the pleats of the back-breadth, massed directly at the centre, and quite low. The mistake generally made in draping skirts proper is in placing the elastics which hold the breadths back too high upon the skirt.
Square as well as round apron-fronts prove lasting in their popularity among over-skirt designs, variety as well as novelty being obtained by individual fancies in looping. Frequently, a full over-skirt model is caught up at one side only, while the opposite undraped side is ornamented with a pocket so elaborate as to supply a most showy effect.
Some of the richest toilettes provided for the festival season exhibit the familar over-skirt design which simulates triple aprons, this style being especially popular because of the opportunity afforded for elaboration. A striking fancy in evening toilettes for young ladies, in their first society season, is the absence of an over-skirt, or even the simulation of one. The single skirt worn is handsomely trimmed around the foot, and is completed with large puffs at the back, after the style of skirts made to be accompanied by a tablier only. The general taste, however, is for over-skirt models which drape handsomely, and upon which the stylish garnitures at present in vogue will be most effectively represented.
Newest suggestions as to sleeves are that special designs accompany special toilettes more positively than they have heretofore. With an evening costume the Marie Antoinette sleeve is covered two-thirds of its distance above the elbow with a garniture which corresponds with other portions of the toilette. At the elbow double flounces of lace are seen, reaching nearly to the wrist. Coat-shaped velvet sleeves are left open as far as the elbow frequently, a fluted fall of white lace showing below the opening. Sleeves accompanying basques laced up at the front and back, are laced upon the outside seam, disclosing a narrow puff of silk, velvet, or whatever material may harmonize most suitably with the toilette.
Review of Fashions
An irrepressible desire for novelty is never more conspicuous than during the closing weeks of a fashion period, when inquirers are again and again assured that there is nothing new within the reach of any one. The demand refuses to be quieted with any acknowledged shortness of supplies, and the close of the season thus becomes notable for the remarkable amount of experimenting, which distinguishes it. Extremes are as common as at the opening of a new period, although these consist either of novel dispositions of garnitures, or the conspicuous effects which are always produced by intensifying fashions already in vogue. The revival of the polonaise, alluded to in a previous number, has now become absolute, securing as great a degree of popularity as was given to this excellent style, upon its first introduction. Lingering weeks of winter exhibit polonaises of black velvet, marked by an elegant simplicity as to garniture, the ordinary model being so extravagantly lengthened in many cases that the one garment becomes a sweeping robe, which is worn without the skirt portion of the toilette. With looping, this Princesse polonaise forms an admirably drpaed garment, which is worn over a skirt corresponding in its general features. Polonaises of damask silk and woolen suitings, show the peculiarities of a pelisse, in respect to loopings or drapery effects, while a popular fancy for young ladies is the simulation of a basque for the front, and a plain, slightly-draped back, or contrariwise, a gracefully wrinkled apron-front, with a looped back, completed with shirrs, frills, and elaborate sash-ends. Several novelties, introduced for young ladies' evening dresses, are made from the same basque designs which have served all through the season. One, variously called the armor basque, corset-waist, and long cuirasse basque, is the familiar model, lengthened to what at first appears to be an extreme depth at the front, the back being much shorter. No over-skirt is worn with such a basque, the desired effect of skirt drapery being provided by certain features of trimming. Low-necked corset-basques of this variety, are made with extra side bodies at the back, thus showing five seams, while the fronts are formed with double darts, the skirt portion of the garment being extended according to individual taste. While such extremes mark basque models for showy toilettes, the greatest possible freedom is permitted for all other varieties. The depth of a basque-skirt is determined by its adaptability of shape to the figure which it is intended to cover, and the same rule will apply to the collarette, revers, upright collar, or handsomely outlined Pompadour form, which may be seen between the shoulders, both at the back and front.
The only variation in skirts to be set down for the current month is the abandonment of very long trains for evening costumes, and the gathering of moderately long back-breadths into a more positive, fan-like shape. The effect of this comely little bit of drapery is compact in the extreme, the finely-pleated extension being held in the nicest precision by means of elastic ribbons placed at about two-thirds of the distance down upon the breadths. No fresh model is required for the correct representation of such a skirt, the effect being caused by changing the box-pleats of the back-breadths into fine side-pleats, at a proper point, and giving the desired flare and fan-like appearance by lining the extension with crinoline, and securing the width into the required compass by means of elastics. Walking-skirts continue to clear the foot in front, and for a short distance at the sides they are equally short. At the back they touch the ground, and show the pleats of the back-breadth, massed directly at the centre, and quite low. The mistake generally made in draping skirts proper is in placing the elastics which hold the breadths back too high upon the skirt.
Square as well as round apron-fronts prove lasting in their popularity among over-skirt designs, variety as well as novelty being obtained by individual fancies in looping. Frequently, a full over-skirt model is caught up at one side only, while the opposite undraped side is ornamented with a pocket so elaborate as to supply a most showy effect.
Some of the richest toilettes provided for the festival season exhibit the familar over-skirt design which simulates triple aprons, this style being especially popular because of the opportunity afforded for elaboration. A striking fancy in evening toilettes for young ladies, in their first society season, is the absence of an over-skirt, or even the simulation of one. The single skirt worn is handsomely trimmed around the foot, and is completed with large puffs at the back, after the style of skirts made to be accompanied by a tablier only. The general taste, however, is for over-skirt models which drape handsomely, and upon which the stylish garnitures at present in vogue will be most effectively represented.
Newest suggestions as to sleeves are that special designs accompany special toilettes more positively than they have heretofore. With an evening costume the Marie Antoinette sleeve is covered two-thirds of its distance above the elbow with a garniture which corresponds with other portions of the toilette. At the elbow double flounces of lace are seen, reaching nearly to the wrist. Coat-shaped velvet sleeves are left open as far as the elbow frequently, a fluted fall of white lace showing below the opening. Sleeves accompanying basques laced up at the front and back, are laced upon the outside seam, disclosing a narrow puff of silk, velvet, or whatever material may harmonize most suitably with the toilette.
Wednesday, September 7, 2011
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - January 1883 Peterson's Magazine
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - January 1883 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks
At this season of the year, there is but little that is new to chronicle with regard to the fashions. By the first of December, the newest models have appeared, and in that month we gave a full description of the prevailing styles. For the benefit, however, of our new subscribers, we will mention some of the most important things to a woman who wishes to be well dressed. Only it must not be forgotten, that there never was a time when individual taste had such liberty, and every woman could dress so much as she chose.
All dresses for walking are made short enough to escape the ground, and when pretty feet and well-fitting boots are to be seen, the costumes may be worn shorter than they would otherwise be. But these quite short dresses only look well on young people. Middle-aged or elderly ones should wear their skirts as long as they conveniently can, so as to just escape the ground. A dress that is used exclusively in the house is prettier with a short train, and certainly more becoming to elderly people.
Sleeves are made rather close-fitting. The shoulder-seam is short, so that the sleeve is set high up on the shoulder. French dressmakers make the sleeves to fit so well that the exceedingly tight look which an inferior dressmaker gives the sleeve is not seen. In fact, these skin-tight sleeves are exceedingly unbecoming, the arms standing out from the shoulders and the waist like those of dolls stuffed with sawdust. A sleeve that fits smoothly (and that depends on the cut) and is reasonably tight, is much more becoming.
Bodices are, as a rule, close (not tight) fitting, and are made sometimes with points back and front, sometimes with coat-basques at the back, and sometimes with a rather deep basque all around. All depends on the individual taste.
For rather full dress, bodices are usually made open in the neck, and filled in with tulle or lace. Some have standing collars, and some have not. Revers or lappels are also optional.
Skirts are sometimes worn much trimmed, and sometimes quite plain. The latter is usually the case in tailor-made or cloth suits. For the street, the plainer skirt is much more stylish.
There is a good deal of drapery at the back of skirts, to give a full effect, and this is liked by most well-dressed people, better than the tournure or bustle, that is necessary for the present fashion, if the drapery is not full.
The Princess dress, the polonaise, and the separate skirt with basque, are all equally popular.
Velveteen now comes of such a beautiful quality, that it has to a great degree taken the place of velvet, especially for skirts, and is often used for trimmings.
Plush also is still in favor, but braiding is rather newer, though, as a rule, we think it most suitable for street-dresses.
Plaids of all sorts are very generally worn. Some costumes have the skirts of plaid, and the close-fitting jacket, with castellated or battlement-basques of a plain color, corresponding in tone with the plaid, while others have the plaited skirt of plain material, and the perfectly-fitting polonaises of plaid. The "tabbed" jackets are either braided up the sleeves, down the front, half-way down the back, and around the "tabs," or they are plain, with the sleeves put in full and high, and gimp ornaments in front, occasionally fastened together with loops of reversible satin ribbon. These jackets are worn for evening, made in black velvet, trimmed with black lace, or entirely of black lace, mounted on either satin or thin silk. They are sually cut square back and front, and have the lace sleeves just over the elbow. If in black velvet, they have the "tabbed" or front-pointed basque, according to taste, the back being longer and fuller; but if in lace, they are arranged with short paniers, drawn to the back, and finished off with loops of lace. White, gray, red, or black tulle skirts are worn with them.
Beaded trimmings and passementeries of all kinds divide public favor with the new braiding designs, and in some cases embroideries of braid and beads mixed, are used with the most happy effect.
A novel way of using braid has appeared in one or two mantles and dresses. The braid is sewed on the material around and around to form a flat circle, and these circles, placed near together without touching, trim the whole garment. The effect is very striking.
Lace still continues very fashionable, especially the black and colored Spanish lace.
Many of the new mantles are quite as long as those of last winter, whilst some are made a little shorter, and are consequently more dressy-looking. They are usually in the dolman style, with cape-like sleeves, and very high in the throat. The more dressy onces are loaded with trimming, even when the material is of the richest description. Fur is much used; but this is put on more sparingly than lace, fringe, gimp, etc.
Other winter wraps are quite plain, and rather close-fitting, like a long polonaise; either style is equally fashionable. For the richest mantles, a gay-colored satin or silk is almost universally used as a lining.
Jackets of cloth are usually close-fitting. Some long, some rather short, generally braided, and made warm enough for cold weather by wool wadding. All the winter wraps are made with sufficient spring to fit well over the full drapery or tournure at the back.
Bonnets and hats are generally either small or of only a medium size, though some large ones are seen. Much depends on the face. As a rule, large bonnets are not becoming. The hats are many of them only toques or turbans, very small, and have but little trimming. Shades of red are popular for dress bonnets, strawberry-red especially; but usually the bonnet is worn to correspond with the costume.
Fancy muffs are popular. They cost much less than good fur ones, and can be made at home by an ingenious woman. As they are carried quite small, a small piece of the material of the dress, with some good ribbon and nice lining, is all that is necessary. For using with a variety of dresses, a black velvet one, trimmed with some black lace, or some black satin ribbon quilled, will be found useful. A pretty muff, which we have seen, was made of red satin, covered with frills of black lace; but this should only be carried with a dress that is suitable for it.
General Remarks
At this season of the year, there is but little that is new to chronicle with regard to the fashions. By the first of December, the newest models have appeared, and in that month we gave a full description of the prevailing styles. For the benefit, however, of our new subscribers, we will mention some of the most important things to a woman who wishes to be well dressed. Only it must not be forgotten, that there never was a time when individual taste had such liberty, and every woman could dress so much as she chose.
All dresses for walking are made short enough to escape the ground, and when pretty feet and well-fitting boots are to be seen, the costumes may be worn shorter than they would otherwise be. But these quite short dresses only look well on young people. Middle-aged or elderly ones should wear their skirts as long as they conveniently can, so as to just escape the ground. A dress that is used exclusively in the house is prettier with a short train, and certainly more becoming to elderly people.
Sleeves are made rather close-fitting. The shoulder-seam is short, so that the sleeve is set high up on the shoulder. French dressmakers make the sleeves to fit so well that the exceedingly tight look which an inferior dressmaker gives the sleeve is not seen. In fact, these skin-tight sleeves are exceedingly unbecoming, the arms standing out from the shoulders and the waist like those of dolls stuffed with sawdust. A sleeve that fits smoothly (and that depends on the cut) and is reasonably tight, is much more becoming.
Bodices are, as a rule, close (not tight) fitting, and are made sometimes with points back and front, sometimes with coat-basques at the back, and sometimes with a rather deep basque all around. All depends on the individual taste.
For rather full dress, bodices are usually made open in the neck, and filled in with tulle or lace. Some have standing collars, and some have not. Revers or lappels are also optional.
Skirts are sometimes worn much trimmed, and sometimes quite plain. The latter is usually the case in tailor-made or cloth suits. For the street, the plainer skirt is much more stylish.
There is a good deal of drapery at the back of skirts, to give a full effect, and this is liked by most well-dressed people, better than the tournure or bustle, that is necessary for the present fashion, if the drapery is not full.
The Princess dress, the polonaise, and the separate skirt with basque, are all equally popular.
Velveteen now comes of such a beautiful quality, that it has to a great degree taken the place of velvet, especially for skirts, and is often used for trimmings.
Plush also is still in favor, but braiding is rather newer, though, as a rule, we think it most suitable for street-dresses.
Plaids of all sorts are very generally worn. Some costumes have the skirts of plaid, and the close-fitting jacket, with castellated or battlement-basques of a plain color, corresponding in tone with the plaid, while others have the plaited skirt of plain material, and the perfectly-fitting polonaises of plaid. The "tabbed" jackets are either braided up the sleeves, down the front, half-way down the back, and around the "tabs," or they are plain, with the sleeves put in full and high, and gimp ornaments in front, occasionally fastened together with loops of reversible satin ribbon. These jackets are worn for evening, made in black velvet, trimmed with black lace, or entirely of black lace, mounted on either satin or thin silk. They are sually cut square back and front, and have the lace sleeves just over the elbow. If in black velvet, they have the "tabbed" or front-pointed basque, according to taste, the back being longer and fuller; but if in lace, they are arranged with short paniers, drawn to the back, and finished off with loops of lace. White, gray, red, or black tulle skirts are worn with them.
Beaded trimmings and passementeries of all kinds divide public favor with the new braiding designs, and in some cases embroideries of braid and beads mixed, are used with the most happy effect.
A novel way of using braid has appeared in one or two mantles and dresses. The braid is sewed on the material around and around to form a flat circle, and these circles, placed near together without touching, trim the whole garment. The effect is very striking.
Lace still continues very fashionable, especially the black and colored Spanish lace.
Many of the new mantles are quite as long as those of last winter, whilst some are made a little shorter, and are consequently more dressy-looking. They are usually in the dolman style, with cape-like sleeves, and very high in the throat. The more dressy onces are loaded with trimming, even when the material is of the richest description. Fur is much used; but this is put on more sparingly than lace, fringe, gimp, etc.
Other winter wraps are quite plain, and rather close-fitting, like a long polonaise; either style is equally fashionable. For the richest mantles, a gay-colored satin or silk is almost universally used as a lining.
Jackets of cloth are usually close-fitting. Some long, some rather short, generally braided, and made warm enough for cold weather by wool wadding. All the winter wraps are made with sufficient spring to fit well over the full drapery or tournure at the back.
Bonnets and hats are generally either small or of only a medium size, though some large ones are seen. Much depends on the face. As a rule, large bonnets are not becoming. The hats are many of them only toques or turbans, very small, and have but little trimming. Shades of red are popular for dress bonnets, strawberry-red especially; but usually the bonnet is worn to correspond with the costume.
Fancy muffs are popular. They cost much less than good fur ones, and can be made at home by an ingenious woman. As they are carried quite small, a small piece of the material of the dress, with some good ribbon and nice lining, is all that is necessary. For using with a variety of dresses, a black velvet one, trimmed with some black lace, or some black satin ribbon quilled, will be found useful. A pretty muff, which we have seen, was made of red satin, covered with frills of black lace; but this should only be carried with a dress that is suitable for it.
Monday, August 8, 2011
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - November 1870 Peterson's Magazine
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - November 1870 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks - As stated in our October number, cashmere is more popular than ever. It is less expensive than silk, falls softly and gracefully in the folds required for the present style of dress, and can be worn on almost any occasion. To make the costume more dressy, the petticoat can be of silk instead of cashmere, and if black, it can be trimmed with a good deal of guipure lace, fringe, or gimp of a wide kind, known as passementerie. Of course, with these expensive trimmings the cashmere suit would cost as much as a silk one. The colors are much less bright than those of former seasons; the old-fashioned plum and prune colors, (the former on a purplish cast, the latter on a blue,) dark, forest-green, olive-green, navy-blue, chestnut-brown, slate-grays, etc., etc., are all being revived; these are seen in poplins, merinoes, silks, etc., etc., but in an infinite variety of shades.
Braiding is being revived on dresses, mantles, etc., but a round braid is used in place of the flat braid formerly in vogue, and looks much more like embroidery. Braid of the color of the dress should always be used.
Curious combinations of color are now in use, such as maroon and light-blue, maroon and chestnut, maroon and gray, etc. Petticoats of black velvet are very popular, as they can be worn with almost any costume. We have seen one with a flounce of embroidered foulard silk around the bottom, and worn with a foulard casaque, looped up high on the hips. Black silk petticoats can also be worn with almost any costume. Over these can be worn the long casaque of any color, which can be so gracefully looped up at the sides or the back, or the short, draped over-dress, with the loose or tight-fitting sacque. There is a prophecy of fewer trimmings than formerly on the lower-skirt or petticoat, but we have seen no evidence of it as yet. Basques of all kinds will be worn, and either with or without belts, as may be desired, and with or without a large bow at the back. The costumes made from the gray or brown Scotch shawls are exceedingly nice and useful, only they should be draped by a tasteful hand if they are to look elegant.
For evening dresses, the most delicate colors are used; the waists are low in the neck, or cut out in a heart-shape in front, with rather wide hanging sleeves. The skirts are much or little trimmed, to suit the taste of the wearer; flounces pinked, or scalloped, and bound; ruches made of the silk raveled out; flounces of white embroidery on muslin, are all used, with, in fact, any other mode of trimming that the fancy may dictate.
We give in our steel plate some of the newest style of basques; they can be made of velvet, beaver-cloth, silk, plush, cashmere, or any other material that may be deemed best. Sleeves are either of the coat-shape or loose; if the latter, a tight-fitting dress sleeve should be worn underneath. The mantle called Infante is destined to be a great success. It consists of two capes, which are square in front. At the back it has a sort of long, flat plait, which descends midway, and is fastened to the waistband. The form is well suited to a tall, slight figure.
The Infante is made of black China crepe, ornamented with a very fine round braid that has all the effect of embroidery. It is edged with handsome black blond, which may be replaced either by a fringe with a netted heading or by guipure. The Infante mantle is also made of the same material as the dress. We have seen it completing a gray cashmere costume. The petticoat, which was extremely novel, was of gray silk, trimmed with cross-bands of cashmere to the waist. Each band was edged with a gray worsted Tom Thumb fringe. The cashmere tunic that opened in front, was bordered with a cross-band of gray silk, edged with the tiny ball-fringe. It was looped up at the back with a single pouf. The Infante mantle had no other trimming than a silk cross-band with worsted ball-fringe. The effect was charming.
Bonnets have decidedly altered in shape since last winter. All through the summer small alterations have crept in, and though there are various modifications of what is called the "Marie Antoinette Gipsy," all bonnets tend to the gipsy shape. These have suitable crowns, and caps, and strings tying under the chin. Satin will not be much worn; but velvet will take its place. Two or three shades of the same color will be worn in one bonnet, with tips of feathers shaded to correspond, and a large flower. Black velvet bonnets are trimmed with white plumes, white lace, or pipings of white satin.
Among the materials that we can recommend are the Buffalo-brand Alpacas and the Sable-brand Brilliantines. We have, on a preceding occasion, spoken of the former. The latter, in its way, is equally desirable. They can be had, not only at all the best drygoods shops in our great cities, but also in all good country stores. They are particularly seasonable at this time of the year.
General Remarks - As stated in our October number, cashmere is more popular than ever. It is less expensive than silk, falls softly and gracefully in the folds required for the present style of dress, and can be worn on almost any occasion. To make the costume more dressy, the petticoat can be of silk instead of cashmere, and if black, it can be trimmed with a good deal of guipure lace, fringe, or gimp of a wide kind, known as passementerie. Of course, with these expensive trimmings the cashmere suit would cost as much as a silk one. The colors are much less bright than those of former seasons; the old-fashioned plum and prune colors, (the former on a purplish cast, the latter on a blue,) dark, forest-green, olive-green, navy-blue, chestnut-brown, slate-grays, etc., etc., are all being revived; these are seen in poplins, merinoes, silks, etc., etc., but in an infinite variety of shades.
Braiding is being revived on dresses, mantles, etc., but a round braid is used in place of the flat braid formerly in vogue, and looks much more like embroidery. Braid of the color of the dress should always be used.
Curious combinations of color are now in use, such as maroon and light-blue, maroon and chestnut, maroon and gray, etc. Petticoats of black velvet are very popular, as they can be worn with almost any costume. We have seen one with a flounce of embroidered foulard silk around the bottom, and worn with a foulard casaque, looped up high on the hips. Black silk petticoats can also be worn with almost any costume. Over these can be worn the long casaque of any color, which can be so gracefully looped up at the sides or the back, or the short, draped over-dress, with the loose or tight-fitting sacque. There is a prophecy of fewer trimmings than formerly on the lower-skirt or petticoat, but we have seen no evidence of it as yet. Basques of all kinds will be worn, and either with or without belts, as may be desired, and with or without a large bow at the back. The costumes made from the gray or brown Scotch shawls are exceedingly nice and useful, only they should be draped by a tasteful hand if they are to look elegant.
For evening dresses, the most delicate colors are used; the waists are low in the neck, or cut out in a heart-shape in front, with rather wide hanging sleeves. The skirts are much or little trimmed, to suit the taste of the wearer; flounces pinked, or scalloped, and bound; ruches made of the silk raveled out; flounces of white embroidery on muslin, are all used, with, in fact, any other mode of trimming that the fancy may dictate.
We give in our steel plate some of the newest style of basques; they can be made of velvet, beaver-cloth, silk, plush, cashmere, or any other material that may be deemed best. Sleeves are either of the coat-shape or loose; if the latter, a tight-fitting dress sleeve should be worn underneath. The mantle called Infante is destined to be a great success. It consists of two capes, which are square in front. At the back it has a sort of long, flat plait, which descends midway, and is fastened to the waistband. The form is well suited to a tall, slight figure.
The Infante is made of black China crepe, ornamented with a very fine round braid that has all the effect of embroidery. It is edged with handsome black blond, which may be replaced either by a fringe with a netted heading or by guipure. The Infante mantle is also made of the same material as the dress. We have seen it completing a gray cashmere costume. The petticoat, which was extremely novel, was of gray silk, trimmed with cross-bands of cashmere to the waist. Each band was edged with a gray worsted Tom Thumb fringe. The cashmere tunic that opened in front, was bordered with a cross-band of gray silk, edged with the tiny ball-fringe. It was looped up at the back with a single pouf. The Infante mantle had no other trimming than a silk cross-band with worsted ball-fringe. The effect was charming.
Bonnets have decidedly altered in shape since last winter. All through the summer small alterations have crept in, and though there are various modifications of what is called the "Marie Antoinette Gipsy," all bonnets tend to the gipsy shape. These have suitable crowns, and caps, and strings tying under the chin. Satin will not be much worn; but velvet will take its place. Two or three shades of the same color will be worn in one bonnet, with tips of feathers shaded to correspond, and a large flower. Black velvet bonnets are trimmed with white plumes, white lace, or pipings of white satin.
Among the materials that we can recommend are the Buffalo-brand Alpacas and the Sable-brand Brilliantines. We have, on a preceding occasion, spoken of the former. The latter, in its way, is equally desirable. They can be had, not only at all the best drygoods shops in our great cities, but also in all good country stores. They are particularly seasonable at this time of the year.
Tuesday, July 19, 2011
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - December 1889 Peterson's Magazine
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - December 1889 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks -
There is no special change in the make of either gowns, wraps, or bonnets; but there are some modifications of the autumn fashions, and so many fancies that all tastes can easily be gratified.
Skirts continue to be but little trimmed; and, for costumes to be worn out-of-doors only, fur is much used. When the dress is used for the house as well, patterns woven in the material, braiding, embroidery, and passementerie are employed, though it is quite usual to see gowns without any trimming at all. Our October and November colored plates give all the newest styles in this respect. All skirts have a flat appearance in front, even when draped, and the back-breadths fall in straight full plaits or with but the slightest looping.
Bodices are nearly all trimmed in some way, either with vests which are plaited or gathered, revers of various styles, braiding, or passementerie. Pointed and round waists are both fashionable, though the pointed waist is more suitable for stout persons. Fancy buckles are much worn with the waistbands of round waists. Some bodices have a revers on one side, while the other is quite plain; but we do not think this a becoming style.
Sleeves are all wider in the upper part and have almost an epaulette effect, and are cut in the old leg-of-mutton style. Many sleeves are cut loose and long, and the fullness is then pushed up to the shoulder and fastened under an ornament; or there is a pointed trimming down the back of the arm, and all the sleeve-fullness is gathered under it. Ribbon is often tied around the arm; sometimes there is a bow on the shoulder, which stands up and assists in giving the height which is fashionable. These high shoulders best suit tall slim women; if worn by the short and stout, they add breadth to the shoulders and decrease the apparent height. Short people had better wear sleeves which are raised by gathers into the top of the sleeve and fit the arm rather closely but comfortably.
Cloth, camel's-hair, cashmere, and all kinds of woolen goods are used for out-of-door dresses, frequently trimmed with fur, or combined with velvet or silk, or trimmed with passementerie and heavy fringe. But silk or velvet alone is seldom used as an out-of-door dress except for ceremonious occasions.
For the house, the lighter woolens are very popular, while silks, brocades, and crepe-de-Chine are all used.
Velvet capes are worn as extra wraps, in place of the fur capes which have been fashionable - though, of course, they are not nearly so warm. These capes often have a Medici collar, which is quite high and flaring at the back and gives a very stylish appearance to the wrap.
Wraps are either quite long or rather short; the long wrap is the most comfortable, but not so jaunty-looking as the shorter jacket or mantle. Some of the long wraps are not at all loose, but are made almost like dresses with full skirts sewed to the round waist; others fall from a yoke; others are shaped to the shoulders and have long wing-like sleeves; and toher, again, are made on the old sling-sleeve model, where a cape is turned up underneath and holds the arms. Figured cloths, matelasse, and brocaded silks are used for handsome wraps.
Jackets and mantles are made of cloth, plush, or velvet. Jackets are seldom trimmed on the edge except with fur, but are often a good deal braided; while the mantles are trimmed with lace, fringe, and passementerie.
Bonnets and hats have changed but little since the early autumn. Bonnets are usually small and capote in shape, though the Directoire bonnet is liked by some people and is becoming to but few; it requires a good deal of fluffy hair or small curls on the forehead to keep it from giving the face a hard look. The capote or small rather flat bonnet is almost universally becoming. Velvet, lace, satin, cloth, and felt are all used for bonnets.
Hats are either quite small or rather large, though the best-dressed people do not wear them of an exaggerated size.
Toques and turbans are often made of cloth or of the material of the dress, and a band of fur frequently finishes the brim. Black ribbons, feathers, or lace trims many of the colored hats and bonnets.
Black silk stockings are much worn with evening-dresses, but are often embroidered on the front with some color corresponding with the dress.
General Remarks -
There is no special change in the make of either gowns, wraps, or bonnets; but there are some modifications of the autumn fashions, and so many fancies that all tastes can easily be gratified.
Skirts continue to be but little trimmed; and, for costumes to be worn out-of-doors only, fur is much used. When the dress is used for the house as well, patterns woven in the material, braiding, embroidery, and passementerie are employed, though it is quite usual to see gowns without any trimming at all. Our October and November colored plates give all the newest styles in this respect. All skirts have a flat appearance in front, even when draped, and the back-breadths fall in straight full plaits or with but the slightest looping.
Bodices are nearly all trimmed in some way, either with vests which are plaited or gathered, revers of various styles, braiding, or passementerie. Pointed and round waists are both fashionable, though the pointed waist is more suitable for stout persons. Fancy buckles are much worn with the waistbands of round waists. Some bodices have a revers on one side, while the other is quite plain; but we do not think this a becoming style.
Sleeves are all wider in the upper part and have almost an epaulette effect, and are cut in the old leg-of-mutton style. Many sleeves are cut loose and long, and the fullness is then pushed up to the shoulder and fastened under an ornament; or there is a pointed trimming down the back of the arm, and all the sleeve-fullness is gathered under it. Ribbon is often tied around the arm; sometimes there is a bow on the shoulder, which stands up and assists in giving the height which is fashionable. These high shoulders best suit tall slim women; if worn by the short and stout, they add breadth to the shoulders and decrease the apparent height. Short people had better wear sleeves which are raised by gathers into the top of the sleeve and fit the arm rather closely but comfortably.
Cloth, camel's-hair, cashmere, and all kinds of woolen goods are used for out-of-door dresses, frequently trimmed with fur, or combined with velvet or silk, or trimmed with passementerie and heavy fringe. But silk or velvet alone is seldom used as an out-of-door dress except for ceremonious occasions.
For the house, the lighter woolens are very popular, while silks, brocades, and crepe-de-Chine are all used.
Velvet capes are worn as extra wraps, in place of the fur capes which have been fashionable - though, of course, they are not nearly so warm. These capes often have a Medici collar, which is quite high and flaring at the back and gives a very stylish appearance to the wrap.
Wraps are either quite long or rather short; the long wrap is the most comfortable, but not so jaunty-looking as the shorter jacket or mantle. Some of the long wraps are not at all loose, but are made almost like dresses with full skirts sewed to the round waist; others fall from a yoke; others are shaped to the shoulders and have long wing-like sleeves; and toher, again, are made on the old sling-sleeve model, where a cape is turned up underneath and holds the arms. Figured cloths, matelasse, and brocaded silks are used for handsome wraps.
Jackets and mantles are made of cloth, plush, or velvet. Jackets are seldom trimmed on the edge except with fur, but are often a good deal braided; while the mantles are trimmed with lace, fringe, and passementerie.
Bonnets and hats have changed but little since the early autumn. Bonnets are usually small and capote in shape, though the Directoire bonnet is liked by some people and is becoming to but few; it requires a good deal of fluffy hair or small curls on the forehead to keep it from giving the face a hard look. The capote or small rather flat bonnet is almost universally becoming. Velvet, lace, satin, cloth, and felt are all used for bonnets.
Hats are either quite small or rather large, though the best-dressed people do not wear them of an exaggerated size.
Toques and turbans are often made of cloth or of the material of the dress, and a band of fur frequently finishes the brim. Black ribbons, feathers, or lace trims many of the colored hats and bonnets.
Black silk stockings are much worn with evening-dresses, but are often embroidered on the front with some color corresponding with the dress.
Monday, June 6, 2011
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - October 1875 Peterson's Magazine
Late Victorian Era Fashion Chit Chat - October 1875 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks
We give, this month, our usual variety of hats, head-dresses, bonnets, etc. Of the beauty of the hats we need say nothing, and it is almost impossible to describe them. The black metalisse paletot is edged with two ruffles of black silk, and has a plain hood, finished with a black ribbon bow. The black velvet spencer is finished with a black guipure lace, and is fastened across the front with rows of jet beads. A white crepe lisse, in quilling, goes around the neck and front. The pocket is of black velvet, with white net over it, and a rose with buds ornaments it. We have seen, for evening-dress, some white lace pockets, from which clusters of flowers were apparently falling. The dolman is of black poplin, with jet bead-braiding put on lengthwise, and trimmed with jet lace. The jacket is of black ribbed cloth, trimmed with black braid of two widths. The fronts are long and square, and the back short and full, and trimmed with pockets. The jacket is bordered with a band of white braid, having three narrow rows above. The brandebourgs consist of braid and gimp olives. The back is striped with braid, arranged in a fan-like form, each row terminating with an olive.
For full dress, the hair continues to be dressed low on the neck, but it has been worn so for such a length of time that a change must soon take place.
We recommend to our economical readers, as a good way of utilizing two old dresses, a style that may be suggested by the fourth figure in our fashion-plate, if a train dress is needed.
Some sensible people still wear the skirt sufficiently short to escape the ground; but we regret to say that the rather long skirt is still most popular, and this, combined with the close-fitting, tied-back skirt, makes walking anything but a graceful or comfortable affair. All varieties of trimmings are worn on under-skirts: ruffles, flounces, puffs, and plaitings, and the over-dresses present the same variety. Some of the new camel's-hair and other under-dresses are almost covered with braiding: fringes are used to finish these dresses, and are also popular on silks, etc. Many of the newest imported dresses are trimmed with velvet ribbon, either sewed on in strips, or in any form the wearer may fancy.
Bodices are made longer waisted than formerly, and the cuirass waist is still very popular. Worth has made, lately, for dresses to be worn in the house, a half-fitting jacket, tied in front with bow and ends; this is especially pretty for young people, or those with slender figures. He has also made, for more stylish dresses, bodices in the form of the hunting jacket of Louis the Fifteenth's time, which is a long basque all around, opening over an equally long vest in front, the vest being usually of a different color from the jacket. Plaid materials will be worn much more as a trimming than as a material for a whole dress, and will prove more becoming to many figures used in this way. Coat-sleeves are still the most popular, except for full dress. They are close-fitting, shorter, (which, of course, necessitates expensive long gloves,) and have cuffs of divers patierns, usually very flaring ones. Dresses still continue high in the neck: a more comfortable style for the approaching cold weather than it was for the summer time.
Cloaks, Mantles, Jackets, are appearing in great variety, and no one of them seems to be the especial style, only all are long in front, and some are long all around, some again nearly reaching to the feet.
Bonnets and Hats also appear in infinite variety; and small, white flowers, like the hawthorn and elder flower, buttercups, coriopsis, etc., are much used on black bonnets, as well as wreaths, or bunches of currants, cherries, and other small fruits.
General Remarks
We give, this month, our usual variety of hats, head-dresses, bonnets, etc. Of the beauty of the hats we need say nothing, and it is almost impossible to describe them. The black metalisse paletot is edged with two ruffles of black silk, and has a plain hood, finished with a black ribbon bow. The black velvet spencer is finished with a black guipure lace, and is fastened across the front with rows of jet beads. A white crepe lisse, in quilling, goes around the neck and front. The pocket is of black velvet, with white net over it, and a rose with buds ornaments it. We have seen, for evening-dress, some white lace pockets, from which clusters of flowers were apparently falling. The dolman is of black poplin, with jet bead-braiding put on lengthwise, and trimmed with jet lace. The jacket is of black ribbed cloth, trimmed with black braid of two widths. The fronts are long and square, and the back short and full, and trimmed with pockets. The jacket is bordered with a band of white braid, having three narrow rows above. The brandebourgs consist of braid and gimp olives. The back is striped with braid, arranged in a fan-like form, each row terminating with an olive.
For full dress, the hair continues to be dressed low on the neck, but it has been worn so for such a length of time that a change must soon take place.
We recommend to our economical readers, as a good way of utilizing two old dresses, a style that may be suggested by the fourth figure in our fashion-plate, if a train dress is needed.
Some sensible people still wear the skirt sufficiently short to escape the ground; but we regret to say that the rather long skirt is still most popular, and this, combined with the close-fitting, tied-back skirt, makes walking anything but a graceful or comfortable affair. All varieties of trimmings are worn on under-skirts: ruffles, flounces, puffs, and plaitings, and the over-dresses present the same variety. Some of the new camel's-hair and other under-dresses are almost covered with braiding: fringes are used to finish these dresses, and are also popular on silks, etc. Many of the newest imported dresses are trimmed with velvet ribbon, either sewed on in strips, or in any form the wearer may fancy.
Bodices are made longer waisted than formerly, and the cuirass waist is still very popular. Worth has made, lately, for dresses to be worn in the house, a half-fitting jacket, tied in front with bow and ends; this is especially pretty for young people, or those with slender figures. He has also made, for more stylish dresses, bodices in the form of the hunting jacket of Louis the Fifteenth's time, which is a long basque all around, opening over an equally long vest in front, the vest being usually of a different color from the jacket. Plaid materials will be worn much more as a trimming than as a material for a whole dress, and will prove more becoming to many figures used in this way. Coat-sleeves are still the most popular, except for full dress. They are close-fitting, shorter, (which, of course, necessitates expensive long gloves,) and have cuffs of divers patierns, usually very flaring ones. Dresses still continue high in the neck: a more comfortable style for the approaching cold weather than it was for the summer time.
Cloaks, Mantles, Jackets, are appearing in great variety, and no one of them seems to be the especial style, only all are long in front, and some are long all around, some again nearly reaching to the feet.
Bonnets and Hats also appear in infinite variety; and small, white flowers, like the hawthorn and elder flower, buttercups, coriopsis, etc., are much used on black bonnets, as well as wreaths, or bunches of currants, cherries, and other small fruits.
Monday, May 9, 2011
Late Victorian Fashion Chit Chat - February 1870 Peterson's Magazine
Late Victorian Fashion Chit Chat - February 1870 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks
We also give, this month, some hats, but they do not differ materially from those already given. The collarettes are also of the newest, and the two square ones look very well when worn over dark dresses when made high in the neck; the chemisette with the lace ruffle at the back, and the revers, must, of course, be worn with a low-necked dress.
The Watteau Style continues to reign; paniers at the back, skirts looped up at the sides, and richly trimmed petticoats, are still as popular as last winter. Some of the sleeves of these dresses are of the coat shape, with deep cuffs, others loose, of the old pagoda shape, over a close sleeve.
Over-skirts are more worn than ever. The most graceful style for upper-skirts, with apron fronts, is to make them as long as the under-skirt, and drape them in deep plaits on the hips, making them only short enough to show the trimming of the under-skirt beneath. Scallops, or castellated points, or else flat bands, trim upper-skirts better than frills that rumple easily.
The most fashionable costumes are made with a tunic, forming at once a bodice and mantle. Pointed waists are becoming more and more popular, and for any, save the slightest figures, they are infinitely the most becoming, though much more difficult to fit nicely than the round waist. All skirts are draped; for ball-dresses, a thin over-dress is always draped over a silk, or over a satin, which is much more lustrous.
The newest combination of colors is light-blue worn with dark violet, or amethyst color.
All Mantles and dresses are made so very high, that great changes have, in consequence, taken place in lingerie. Instead of plain collars turned down, one now wears small standing-up collars, or else, what is infinitely more becoming, ruches of fine muslin, tulle, or lace round the neck. For demi-toilet, finely gauffered ruches of clear muslin, simply trimmed or edged with a narrow strip of tulle, have a charming effect; for more elegant sets we see ruches entirely of Valenciennes or Mechlin lace. It is only with bodices open in the shape of a heart that linen collars, with large turned-down revers, are worn.
In the evening, there are still fichus and pelerines of tulle and lace, with satin trimmings. With demi-long sleeves, open to the elbow, one wears ruffles of lace, which are extremely becoming, and give much grace to the toilet.
The newest and most coquettish form of bonnet is that called "Bebe," or "Infanta;" it has a small, soft foundation, a tiny curtain at the back, and a high coronet in front. All round the bonnet some gros grain ribbon is twisted. Sometimes the curtain is replaced by a bow of ribbons, as, obviously, a desire to return to curtains is not conspicuous.
Bows are now uiversally worn on the head; no lady appears to fancy that her toilet is complete without one. They are made in all colors, and to match the dress; but black velvet bows are usually selected by those of simple taste, and exceedingly well do they assimilate with every toilet. The hair is now worn so low at the back that nets are again fashionable, and the variety called "invisible" are once more called into requisition. The bows are made of wide ribbon, and have two loops; they are arranged precisely as Alsatian women wear them. Sometimes they have four loops, and are made of narrower ribbon, but then they are neither so pretty, nor so stylish-looking.
The mode of wearing the hair has very much changed in appearance since last year; instead of being entirely taken up by an enormous chignon, the hair falls in large plaits, or thick curls, or again, in great rippling waves, low in the neck. This does not prevent the coiffure being very high, for one begins by combing off the hair as high as possible, above the forehead, afterward one lets it fall on the neck. The long switches of slightly crimped hair, in two massive plaits, are also exceedingly fashionable. These plaits are attached to a comb that is placed far forward on the head, and are long enough to extend straight back to the nape of the neck. To be stylishly worn this coiffure must be narrow, not extending beyond the natural width of the head. The braids must not taper, but be of the same width their entire length, must set closely to the head, and be turned under squarely below. The hair is brushed back smoothly from the temples and sides of the face. This is the style for the street and house, and for all occasions except for full dress, when a few flowing curls are mingled with the braided tresses, and a single rose, or a coronet is placed in front. A tiny bow of bright-colored ribbon on the left side of the braids, or a band of narrow ribbon around the head, with a bow on top, and flowing ends behind, are pretty for afternoon wear.
General Remarks
We also give, this month, some hats, but they do not differ materially from those already given. The collarettes are also of the newest, and the two square ones look very well when worn over dark dresses when made high in the neck; the chemisette with the lace ruffle at the back, and the revers, must, of course, be worn with a low-necked dress.
The Watteau Style continues to reign; paniers at the back, skirts looped up at the sides, and richly trimmed petticoats, are still as popular as last winter. Some of the sleeves of these dresses are of the coat shape, with deep cuffs, others loose, of the old pagoda shape, over a close sleeve.
Over-skirts are more worn than ever. The most graceful style for upper-skirts, with apron fronts, is to make them as long as the under-skirt, and drape them in deep plaits on the hips, making them only short enough to show the trimming of the under-skirt beneath. Scallops, or castellated points, or else flat bands, trim upper-skirts better than frills that rumple easily.
The most fashionable costumes are made with a tunic, forming at once a bodice and mantle. Pointed waists are becoming more and more popular, and for any, save the slightest figures, they are infinitely the most becoming, though much more difficult to fit nicely than the round waist. All skirts are draped; for ball-dresses, a thin over-dress is always draped over a silk, or over a satin, which is much more lustrous.
The newest combination of colors is light-blue worn with dark violet, or amethyst color.
All Mantles and dresses are made so very high, that great changes have, in consequence, taken place in lingerie. Instead of plain collars turned down, one now wears small standing-up collars, or else, what is infinitely more becoming, ruches of fine muslin, tulle, or lace round the neck. For demi-toilet, finely gauffered ruches of clear muslin, simply trimmed or edged with a narrow strip of tulle, have a charming effect; for more elegant sets we see ruches entirely of Valenciennes or Mechlin lace. It is only with bodices open in the shape of a heart that linen collars, with large turned-down revers, are worn.
In the evening, there are still fichus and pelerines of tulle and lace, with satin trimmings. With demi-long sleeves, open to the elbow, one wears ruffles of lace, which are extremely becoming, and give much grace to the toilet.
The newest and most coquettish form of bonnet is that called "Bebe," or "Infanta;" it has a small, soft foundation, a tiny curtain at the back, and a high coronet in front. All round the bonnet some gros grain ribbon is twisted. Sometimes the curtain is replaced by a bow of ribbons, as, obviously, a desire to return to curtains is not conspicuous.
Bows are now uiversally worn on the head; no lady appears to fancy that her toilet is complete without one. They are made in all colors, and to match the dress; but black velvet bows are usually selected by those of simple taste, and exceedingly well do they assimilate with every toilet. The hair is now worn so low at the back that nets are again fashionable, and the variety called "invisible" are once more called into requisition. The bows are made of wide ribbon, and have two loops; they are arranged precisely as Alsatian women wear them. Sometimes they have four loops, and are made of narrower ribbon, but then they are neither so pretty, nor so stylish-looking.
The mode of wearing the hair has very much changed in appearance since last year; instead of being entirely taken up by an enormous chignon, the hair falls in large plaits, or thick curls, or again, in great rippling waves, low in the neck. This does not prevent the coiffure being very high, for one begins by combing off the hair as high as possible, above the forehead, afterward one lets it fall on the neck. The long switches of slightly crimped hair, in two massive plaits, are also exceedingly fashionable. These plaits are attached to a comb that is placed far forward on the head, and are long enough to extend straight back to the nape of the neck. To be stylishly worn this coiffure must be narrow, not extending beyond the natural width of the head. The braids must not taper, but be of the same width their entire length, must set closely to the head, and be turned under squarely below. The hair is brushed back smoothly from the temples and sides of the face. This is the style for the street and house, and for all occasions except for full dress, when a few flowing curls are mingled with the braided tresses, and a single rose, or a coronet is placed in front. A tiny bow of bright-colored ribbon on the left side of the braids, or a band of narrow ribbon around the head, with a bow on top, and flowing ends behind, are pretty for afternoon wear.
Monday, March 21, 2011
Late Victorian Era Chit Chat - September 1880 Peterson's Magazine
Late Victorian Era Chit Chat - September 1880 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks
Short dresses are more popular than ever, and are in general use, except for full evening dress, or a fashionable dinner dress. All dresses are still quite close, and clinging in front; but many are a little fuller on the hips, and fuller still just at the back.
There is a great variety in plaited skirts, for short walking costumes. Some are box-plaited in single plaits, others are double kiltings, while many are covered with three kilted flounces. Most of the skirts of one plaiting have at the edge a narrow kilted border of dark orange or red, instead of a white balayeuse. This has the effect of shortening the skirt somewhat, but it is easier to keep in order than the lace balayeuses, that soil so easily in walking dresses. There is no doubt, however, that skirts with three flounces will be very fashionably worn; they always return with all-round skirts. These three skirts, however, should be worn only by tall, slender persons. Many of the newest trimmings are gathered, or shirred ruffles in place of knife-plaited ones; in fact, shirring is very popular, not only for ruffles, but for the fronts and sides of dresses, etc. The polonaise, of one material or color, worn over skirts of another color or material, is again popular in Paris; one of the most beautiful that we have seen, is a polonaise of dull silk of helitrope color, worn over a richly trimmed lilac satin skirt, trimmed with a broad, white lace flounce.
Beads of all colors, jet trimmings, and all glittering things are very fashionable. These, like gold lace, gold braid, or gold embroidery, should be very judiciously used, or the toilette will have a tawdry look. For persons with a limited wardrobe, such glaring trimmings should be avoided, as fashionable as they are.
Some old dresses have been re-modelled for out-of-door wear, by attaching a hood of the material of the dress to the shoulders, and lining it with old gold, dark red, or dark blue silk, or silk serge.
Mantles, Capes and Jackets are of all varieties. Some are quite small, and some are quite large; some tight fitting, and some half-loose fitting. The round capes, coming to the elbows, made of full rows of lace, or of jet, are very popular for early autumn wear, but are not warm enough for the colder weather.
Bonnets are rather small, and frequently round or cottage shape. The other shapes that are considered becoming are also worn. Hats, also, are of all styles; but the very large hats are not so often seen as formerly.
General Remarks
Short dresses are more popular than ever, and are in general use, except for full evening dress, or a fashionable dinner dress. All dresses are still quite close, and clinging in front; but many are a little fuller on the hips, and fuller still just at the back.
There is a great variety in plaited skirts, for short walking costumes. Some are box-plaited in single plaits, others are double kiltings, while many are covered with three kilted flounces. Most of the skirts of one plaiting have at the edge a narrow kilted border of dark orange or red, instead of a white balayeuse. This has the effect of shortening the skirt somewhat, but it is easier to keep in order than the lace balayeuses, that soil so easily in walking dresses. There is no doubt, however, that skirts with three flounces will be very fashionably worn; they always return with all-round skirts. These three skirts, however, should be worn only by tall, slender persons. Many of the newest trimmings are gathered, or shirred ruffles in place of knife-plaited ones; in fact, shirring is very popular, not only for ruffles, but for the fronts and sides of dresses, etc. The polonaise, of one material or color, worn over skirts of another color or material, is again popular in Paris; one of the most beautiful that we have seen, is a polonaise of dull silk of helitrope color, worn over a richly trimmed lilac satin skirt, trimmed with a broad, white lace flounce.
Beads of all colors, jet trimmings, and all glittering things are very fashionable. These, like gold lace, gold braid, or gold embroidery, should be very judiciously used, or the toilette will have a tawdry look. For persons with a limited wardrobe, such glaring trimmings should be avoided, as fashionable as they are.
Some old dresses have been re-modelled for out-of-door wear, by attaching a hood of the material of the dress to the shoulders, and lining it with old gold, dark red, or dark blue silk, or silk serge.
Mantles, Capes and Jackets are of all varieties. Some are quite small, and some are quite large; some tight fitting, and some half-loose fitting. The round capes, coming to the elbows, made of full rows of lace, or of jet, are very popular for early autumn wear, but are not warm enough for the colder weather.
Bonnets are rather small, and frequently round or cottage shape. The other shapes that are considered becoming are also worn. Hats, also, are of all styles; but the very large hats are not so often seen as formerly.
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